1924 v 2007                                                                                                  Bookmark This Website

Since the 1924 British Mount Everest Expedition, travel, equipment, clothing and costs have changed. In 1924 George Mallory used the latest type of equipment and clothing that was available to him and the other members at the time. Today, we must wonder how on earth they managed to do what they did with such equipment by today’s standards.

Below I have tried my best to do an accurate list of the differences between some of the clothing and equipment used on the 1924 expedition and what is used today on a 2007 expedition.

Expedition Cost

1924: Cost of overall Expedition: £3,000 to £4,000 for team of 12

2007: Cost of overall Expedition: £150,000 for team of 12

Travel

1924: North Side of Mount Everest

Boat from England UK to Bombay, Train from Bombay to Delhi, Train from Delhi to Calcutta, Train from Calcutta to Darjeeling, Trek/Horseback/Donkey from Darjeeling - Sikkim - Phari - Khamba Dzong - Shekar Dzong - Rongbuk Monastery to Mount Everest Base Camp.

This journey took approximately 4 to 6 weeks but it includes overnight stops for acclimatisation purposes

1924: South Side of Mount Everest

South side of Everest was closed

 2007: North Side of Mount Everest

Fly from England UK to Kathmandu, Fly from Kathmandu to Lhasa, Drive (Jeep) from Lhasa to Shigatse Drive from Shigatse to Shegar, Drive from Shegar to Tingri, Drive from Tingri to Mount Everest Base Camp.

This journey takes approximately 10 days but it includes overnight stops for acclimatisation purposes

2007: South Side of Mount Everest

Fly from England UK to Kathmandu, Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla, Trek (By Foot) From Lukla - Namche Bazaar - Deboche - Dingboche - Lobuje - Gorak Shep to Mount Everest Base Camp.

This journey takes approximately 15 days but it includes overnight stops for acclimatisation purposes

Clothing

1924:

Base Layer: Cotton or Silk Underwear, Wool Long Johns and 3 pairs of Wool Socks

Inner Layer: Woven Silk Shirt, Wool Flannel Shirt, Shetland Knitted Pullover and Wool Leggings

Outer Layer: Cotton Burberry Jacket, Windproof Smock and Trousers

Gloves: Inner Gloves Silk, Outer Gloves Wool or Sheepskin

Headwear: Fur Lined Flying Helmet

Eye Protection: Glass Goggles

Boots: Leather Hobnail and Putties

Crampons: None. The nails on the soles of the boots to served as crampons

The Base Layer would not of been made of a breathable fibre so it would hold in any moisture present. The Inner and Outer Layers would retain any warm air trapped close to the skin keeping them warm. The amount of layers worn would also offer great protection from the wind. Later tests on this clothing have shown it was well designed, comfortable and up to the job it was used for.

2007:

Base Layer: Synthetic Underwear, Fleece Tights and 3 pairs of Thermal Wool Socks

Inner Layer: T-Shirt, Fleece Jacket and Sweater

Outer Layer: Goose Filled Down Jacket with Trousers or All In One Suit

Gloves: Goose Filled Down

Headwear: Wind Proof Fleece Hat fitted into Jacket or All In One Suit

Eye Protection: Glacier glasses with Side Covers and nose guard

Boots: Plastic Outer Shell, Rubber Soles and Synthetic Insulation with built-in over Gaiter

Crampons: 12-point full step-in

Today’s high altitude clothing is designed and tested to withstand the extreme cold and wind.

Equipment

1924:

Tent: A-Frame Cotton

Sleeping Bag: Eiderdown Filled

Ice Axe: Wooden Handle with Steel Head

Oxygen: 3 Cylinders and Apparatus - 28LBS in weight or 20LBS for 2 Cylinders

2007:

Tent: Breathable Nylon and Polyester Dome shape

Sleeping Bag: Goose Filled Down

Ice Axe: Aluminium Handle with Steel Head

Oxygen: 1 Cylinder and Apparatus - 7.7LBS in weight

Food and Drink

1924:

Base Camp: Fresh local foods - Meat, Rice, Eggs, Vegetables, Fruit, Potatoes and Rice.

Drinks: Tea and Coco

Higher Camps: Bully Beef, Tongue, Ham, Sardines, Pemmican, Mixed Biscuits, Variety of Jam, Cheese, Tin Spaghetti, Macaroni, Dried Fruits, Chocolate, Kendal Mint Cake, Butterscotch and Peppermint Sweets.

Drinks: Tea and Coco

2007:

Base Camp: Fresh local foods - Meat, Rice, Eggs, Vegetables, Fruit, Potatoes and Rice. Lentils, Pasta, Bread

Drinks: Tea, Coffee, Beer, High Protein Drinks

Higher Camps: Oatmeal, Nuts, Cookies, Soups, Instant Mash, Noodles, Energy Bars, Pop Tarts, Boil Bags (A meal in bag to boil)

Drinks: Tea, Coffee, Hot Chocolate, High Protein Drinks

Media Equipment

1924:

Kodak Vest Pocket 'B' Camera and Sherpa Mail Runner

 2007:

Satellite Phone, Digital Camera and a Laptop Computer

Comparison Photographs

 1924 Camera (C) David K. Hoyt                                                                2007 Digital Camera  

   1924 Camera © Copyright David K. Hoyt                                                                2007 Digital Camera             

1924 Ice Axe (C) Copyright iStockphoto.com/Pavel Lebedinsky        2007 Ice axe (C) Copyright iStockphoto.com/Claudio Baldini

                       1924 Ice Axe © iStockphoto.com/Pavel Lebedinsky                                            2007 Mountaineering Ice Axe © iStockphoto.com/Claudio Baldini

1924 Replica Clothing (C) Copyright Graham Hoyland                     2007 Clothing (C) Copyright Rob Casserley

 1924 Replica Clothing © Graham Hoyland                                                        2007 Clothing © Rob Casserley                                                

More photographs to follow.

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