British Mount Everest Dispatches

Last night 6 members, 8 Sherpa’s and the leaders David Hamilton and Andy Chapman left the South Col and reached the summit of Everest this morning at approx 06.00. They are now all safely back at the South Col, resting, eating and drinking. They will descend to Camp 2 tomorrow morning. Meanwhile, Rich Parks, Steve Williams, Adam (and possibly Mark) hope to still go on there summit adventure in the next few days.

Summit Climb (North) – Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

The whole team is back in Advanced Base Camp at 6400m. Everybody is feeling strong and the walk up is becoming a lot easier after there solid acclimatization. They spent the evening playing Uno again, they missed this card game after all the movies in Base Camp. Tomorrow will be a rest day in ABC.

Summit Climb (South) – Stewart Edge

Stewart left Camp 4 at 20:45 for the summit. He carried 2 Oxygen bottles, 1 litre of water and 2 snickers bars. After 1 hr Stewart had dropped behind the others with stomach cramps. He asked his Sherpa to turn up his oxygen flow to give him a boost, but he was still struggling to breath and only managing 2 steps a minute which was too slow. After 2 more hours the lead Sherpa was waiting and discovered that Stewart’s oxygen had been turned off! Stewart found this part of the climb harder than he ever could have imagined. The wind was picking up and the wind chill was -45 Celsius. Reaching the South Summit the wind was now blowing 50km/h and made the ridge traitorous with, 10,000ft drops either side. They very carefully crossed reaching the 4m rock that is the Hillary Step. Stewart’s jumar had now frozen, so he pulled himself up the rope knowing that if he let go that would be it! The summit was at last in sight and at 08.15 on 12th May he ran out of earth and stood on top of the world!

Summit Climb (South) – Squash Falconer

Squash reached the summit of Everest at 08.30am on the 12th May, she didn’t fly from the top mostly due to 50km an hour winds and only 10 m visibility! She is well but absolutely tired out and currently heading back to Base Camp.

Adventure Alternative – Leader Gavin Bate

Gavin gives a brief summary that they have made several successful visits to Camp 2 (21,240') and lived up there without any significant health issues. They also made several visits to Camp 3, and Gavin slept up there on the 13th night with Pasang. They have all lost a lot of weight but have had no debilitating illnesses to speak of, no altitude related issues and there has been an excellent camaraderie throughout. Gavin had a date of the 16th May for summiting based on a high profile weather forecast indicating a wind speed of 15km/hr on the summit, with several days of light winds either side. A lot of groups were planning the same date. Pasang and Gavin planned to go ahead as an advance guard so that if there were any problems they would not suddenly use up all the supplies of oxygen and end up exhausting his team. Pasang and Gavin left Camp 2 after lunch and the temperature was easily 30 degrees. By the time they reached their tent at Camp 3 about three hours later the temperature was minus twenty and they had to work hard to warm up. The following morning they were exhausted and cold. The walls of the tent were bulging inwards with the weight of snow on them, so they had to crawl out with a shovel to clear it. After a few calls about the weather, Gavin called a complete retreat, he asked Mike and Dave to descend to Base Camp with the other Sherpa’s, while Pasang and Gavin descended themselves. They are all okay in Base Camp, gathering resources and determination for another visit up high. Gavin’s latest decision is to go for the summit on the 21st May, leaving Base Camp on the 17th.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Basil, Dennis and Mike bask in the sun at Camp 2 on a rest day. In one tent hard rock plays, in another, one of our Sherpa’s, Nyamgal (a former monk) prays and chants fervently. Early tomorrow morning summit team three will head to Camp 3, turn the 'go juice' on (O's) and start the summit bid clock ticking. The 19th and 20th are shaping up to be two of the busiest summit days of the season, but still quite manageable in terms of crowding.

15th May:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

David Hamilton updates that all 7 members that left Camp 2 on Friday, plus him and Andy Chapman have arrived at the South Col. They will spend all afternoon brewing up, drinking and eating before leaving for the summit late this evening. At the moment, they report that it's pretty windy at the col.

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

Having enjoyed only 2/3 days of Base Camp rest after his enforced descent from Camp 3 and subsequent icefall 'dance with death', David is on the move once again. The weather forecasting service appears to have finally aligned it's predictive models and suggested a suitable weather-window between the 19th and 21st of May. David will leave at 2 am tomorrow morning with a view to try and summit between the 19th and 21st - dependent, once again on the weather.

Seven Summits - Geordie Stewart

Geordie reports that every morning they check their emails and get the weather forecast. Being stuck in Base Camp the days are spent going for walks, chatting, reading, sleeping, watching films or listening to music.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

This morning Jesse began his return trek on a two day schedule which will put him in Namche tonight. Dominika and Dominic began a more civilized three day return trek and are in Pheriche tonight. Dennis, Basil and Mike were away at 1.00am with a stunning near full moon. They made it to Camp 2 by 10.00am happy to have completed there last trip the icefall. The usual high temperatures in the Western Cum meant we had a very hot final hour. But everyone is doing well. There plan at Camp 2 is to rest tomorrow. Meanwhile at Base Camp Caroline, John and the teams Sherpa’s have enjoyed a chilled afternoon after what has been a very busy week with two successful summit climbs.

14th May:

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

Phil reports that they are all now back at Base Camp safely after a successful summit attempt on the 12th. Obviously they are all tired and in need of some rest and fine wine and dining from there Base Camp cooks. Over the next few days they will start to pack up all the gear.

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

The team ascended to Camp 2 in excellent time and then rested for the following day, building up the strength for the Lhotste Face and ascent to Camp 3 the next day. So, next day was a pre-dawn Alpine start from Camp 2 to avoid the searing midday heat and energy sapping effect of the sun while exposed on the Lhotse Face ascending to Camp 3. The whole team reached the camp in good order, but understandably exhausted from the effort involved. Rest and rehydration was the order of the day, while weather forecasting information reaching Base Camp was indicating that wind speeds higher up the mountain appeared to be looking unfavorable for the following few days. After much deliberation, the decision to descend to Camp 2 next morning was taken. To stay poised on the mountain, but rest at a more tolerable altitude until a window of opportunity arises. The team have had an excellent night sleep and awake with the hope that today's forecasting might indicate an easing of conditions sometime soon. Apart from some minor aches and pains from the efforts of ascending/descending Lhotse Face, everyone is in good health and clearly in the mood for a serious summit bid.

Summit Climb (South) – Stewart Edge, Squash Falconer

Everest team members are now safely back in Camp 2.

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin reports that he started getting mixed news late yesterday regarding the weather, both from the team on the mountain and also from the forecasts. Gavin and Pasang had a tough night at Camp 3 with very strong gusting winds. A couple of teams who were already at Camp 4 on the south col attempted the summit in gusty but reportably 'doable' conditions but unfortunately with Team Adventure Alternative split over Camps 2 and 3 and weather forecasts showing unstable weather over the next few days it looked like there would be little chance to summit this weekend for Gavin, Dave and Mike. As a result Gavin made the call to drop to Camp 2 where he met up with Dave and Mike and dropped all the way back to Base Camp for a few days rest and relaxation and to reassess and plan a new summit bid. This will hopefully let the weather settle a bit. Wind forecasts are looking more favorable on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday, however heavy snow is forecast for Wednesday.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Some of the team have already started their trip back to civilization and are on their way home. Ang Dorje, Dominika, Dominic and Jesse made fast time down from Camp 2 and are enjoying the luxuries at Base Camp. Today seven of the teams climbing Sherpa’s who supported the second summit team returned to Base Camp carrying enormous packs full of empty oxygen bottles and tents no longer needed. They are very happy with the success and to be able to chill out after such an intense trip. As Dominika, Dominic and Jesse relax with a beer Basil, Dennis and I are preparing for our trip to Camp 2 tomorrow. So the feeling of base camp is a mixture of celebration and simultaneously pensive preparation. They plan to depart at 1.00am tonight. The Sherpa’s supporting the third summit attempt have been waiting patiently.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

Justin reports that the trek up to Advanced Base Camp was somewhat easier then the one they did three weeks ago. They spent the night there and were in our tents tucked up at 7pm knowing that they had twelve hours to kill. They set off for ABC at 8am and slowly meandered there way all the way up the East Ronbuk glacier which just seems to go on for an eternity. They arrived to find that Team 2 was still there! They had been waiting up there for four days now and they all looked remarkably well. The reason that they had not been heading up was that they were still waiting for the Tibetan Mountain Association (TMA) to finish putting the fixed ropes up. At present the ropes are in to 8300m but due to the bad weather up high they have not been able to put the remaining 600m in. Needless to say, all the teams on the mountain are now congregating here waiting to take advantage of the weather window of the 18th/19th. They will be here for at least two or three days and then no doubt will race up the North Col and up to Camp 2 to try and keep ahead of everyone else who will be trying to do the same thing.

13th May:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

Everyone is at Camp 2 today after they descended the Lhotse face from Camp 3 last night after extreme wind conditions were forecast. They made the descent in a quick two hours, which meant they were enjoying a second dinner at 8pm last night in the comfort and safety of the Jagged Globe advanced camp in the Western Cwm. Steve Williams was all set to make the climb up to Camp 2 at 3am this morning. However a collapsed serac in the icefall meant the route was blocked and he could not leave until daylight at 5.30am when a new route was made by the Sherpa team that make up the 'Icefall Doctors' who's job it is to secure a safe passage through the Khumbu icefall. Leaving so late in the day meant Steve could not escape the intense heat which builds up once the sun hits in the Western Cwm between Camp 1 and Camp 2. He arrived just before midday and shall head up to Camp 3 tomorrow for a night of acclimatization. Richard Parks is on a similar schedule and is also at Camp 2 acclimatizing.

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

David’s glorious summit-push came to an abrupt halt yesterday. He is now sitting in the Pod at Base Camp once again. David left Camp 2 at 5am for the second of four daily stage process that, all being well, would/could have culminated in the summit. They had descent forecast intelligence suggesting that the 14th May would be a day suitable for a summit attempt - ambient temperature of -20/-30 and winds of +30 knots. The day dawned hazy to overcast - not a happy omen, despite the suitability of the weather for climbing the Lhotse face in a down suit. David settled in behind Rene in an attempt to slow his own pace [energy conservation], and in an hour had covered the painful but mediocre gradient that leads from Camp 2 to the foot of the face. After a few moments rest he pasted Rene and fell in behind Adrian once again, clipped onto the ropes, and began the tortuous inching up the ice wall. After two hours of steady progress the wind suddenly poured over the Geneva Spur and roared down the face, blasting David with spindrift and forcing him to bend double, close his eyes and turn away, clinging frantically to the rope. He continued for the next hour with wave after wave of 'steam-train' blasts trying to dislodge him from his crampon purchase before he finally reached Camp 3 and slumped into his wind-battered tent gasping wildly. David unloaded his pack in anticipation of a nights stay but because of the weather it was decided for everyone to descend. By 4pm David and all the team members had arrived back at Camp 2. After a rest they continued their descent to Camp 1 and then on down through the ice fall. From David’s blog: “In a matter of minutes we were on the move again, eager to get down. A minute or two south of the field our ears were assaulted by a terrifying, animalistic roar. I spun around and saw, just 25 meters behind us, an entire body of ice, some 40m wide and 20 high simply collapse into the void. What happened next was the most terrifying moment of my life. As the huge body collapsed the ground between myself and it erupted - a concussion wave raced towards me, dropping the huge block of ice I was standing on by ten feet and throwing me off my feet. As I frantically clung to the rope, the block then tipped, trying to toss me into the abyss and crush me to liquid. Behind me Adam and Matt, surfed their own vast blocks of ice in front of the gigantic wall of natural energy. As I toppled I remember involuntarily crying out and thinking [knowing] that my life was over. All this took three/four seconds during which time I remember feeling anger at everything and everyone that I should die in such a ludicrous manner. Then it just stopped. I shot an incredulous glance at Adam who was staring wide-eyed at me. I glanced in the opposite direction at Woody who after reporting the collapse to Base Camp on the radio yelled 'let’s get out of here'. Which is precisely what we did. With my heartbeat hammering in my ears and breath burning in my chest we literally ran the lower section of the fall. We didn’t 'clip in' or adopt any of the normal safety measures that might impede our progress, instead choosing to focus on just getting out of danger. We finally arrived at the bottom [crampon-point] in the dark, removed our crampons and stumbled blindly back to 'our' Base Camp. Behind us, still in the icefall and above the collapse, Adrian and his rearguard group fumbled in the dangerous dark, trying to re-attach both ropes and mangled ladders in a desperate attempt to breach the carnage and descend to Base Camp. This effort was to no avail, with Adrian finally calling time of the effort deeming it much too dangerous. The collapse had totally and clinically split the group. These poor exhausted souls had no alternative but to then ascend to a miserable C1 for the night”.

Summit Climb (South) – Stewart Edge, Squash Falconer

Stew and Squash summited sometime between 0930-1000 local time yesterday (12th) morning. The team is now safely back at Camp 2 and should be at Base Camp tomorrow (Saturday).

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin is currently with the others at Camp 2 in the cwm. They are feeling strong and in high spirits. The outline plan for the rest of the day is for Lopsang and Furtemba to drop back to Camp 2, Gavin and Pasang to make their way up to Camp 3 this afternoon, Dave and Mike will continue to build strength at Camp 2, possibly making a return trip to the base of the Lhotse face to further build their fitness for the next stage.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tait

Yesterday (Thursday) while the Everest team was making their way up to Camp 3, Russell conferred with a few other expedition leaders and double-checked the weather forecast as the weather window seemed to be smaller than expected. “The weather forecast has changed and the winds are going to be stronger than previously predicted. As I don’t think it would be safe for our team to attempt the summit in these high winds, we have aborted the summit attempt and the team, including most of our Sherpa’s, are on their way back down to Base Camp,” Russell confirmed. The group will then rest and recuperate at Base Camp and wait for the next weather window for a new summit bid.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Ang Dorjee, Dominika, Jesse and Dominic reached the summit this morning and also returned to Camp 2 in time to get in some sunbathing. Dean and Paul have returned to Base Camp and are in great spirits after their successful summit bid. Sushi, beer and summit tale banter made for a memorable lunch hour. Meanwhile Summit Team 3 (Mike, Basil and Dennis) are tuning in the next summit weather window and at this stage they plan to depart Base Camp in the early hours of the 15th.

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12th May:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

David Hamilton reports that the main team arrived at Camp 3 this morning.

Summit Climb (North) - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

Today the team are enjoying there last rest day in Base Camp. The plan is to walk to interim camp tomorrow and Advanced Base Camp the following day. The weather is getting better, but they are still not sure when we will aim for the summit exactly. The plan is roughly around the 18th, but this might change due to weather of course.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Ang Dorjee, Dominic, Dominika & Jesse left Camp 3 early this morning on their way to the South Col. Everyone seems to have responded well to breathing oxygen overnight and made good time in challenging conditions. The team met Dean & Paul on their descent just below the Geneva Spur at 10.40am. At this stage the wind was blowing quite a lot of snow over the trail which made progress tricky. However, the team made it to Camp 4 at about midday in good spirits and has spent the afternoon resting, rehydrating and sucking in the oxygen. Meanwhile Dean & Paul have made their way to Camp 2 and are looking forward to their return to Base Camp tomorrow and onward and homeward shortly after that. Paul and myself are back at Camp 2 after a very windy and snowy start to the day at the south col. They both slept well after summating yesterday it must have had something to do with the amount of Bottled Oxygen we were trying to breath during the night.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

After there first false start they are now leaving the comforts of Base Camp. They have been getting conflicting messages from there weather experts but analyzing all the information it appears that the slackest weather up high is over the 18th/19th and it is this window that they are now heading for. There aim is to not have a rest day at Advanced Base Camp and continue up the North Col and then through Camp 2 and 3 and then, God willing, hit the Summit on the 18th. Obviously, that is the 'plan' and knowing how quickly everything can change here we might need to adapt. The Doc, Rod and Justin are feeling strong and these extra days down here have done us the world of good. We are a tight team and move well together which will help us as we get higher and everything gets more difficult. Hempie and Co are heading up to the North Col today and are pushing for a small window before the rest of the team.

11th May:

Seven Summits - Geordie Stewart

Geordie reports that he is now back at Base Camp having successfully reached 7500m on his 22nd birthday a few days ago. With Stages I & II complete, they now are in the hands of the gods and are anxiously waiting on that elusive weather window that will allow them to have a crack at the summit of Mount Everest.

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

David left Base Camp this morning at 1am and arrived at a very cold Camp 2 (6400m) at dawn where he had to salvage and erect the tents damaged in an earlier storm. He is currently sitting in another snowstorm but is cheerful and feeling good.

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

Eight members of the climbing team, plus David and Andy Chapman climbed to Camp 2 yesterday, where the slept overnight. They are going to spend the whole of today there resting and eating, before climbing up to Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face tomorrow (12 May). The following day, they will make the long climb up towards the South Col, crossing the Geneva Spur en route. Their plan is to try for the summit on Saturday 14 May. Richard Parks and Steve Williams spent last night in Camp 2 and will continue to follow their own acclimatisation programme, with Steve descending to Base Camp this morning and Rich hanging out at Camp 2. So far their acclimatisation is going well and they plan to summit around 8 - 10 days later than the main team (around the 23 May).

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

Chris Cookson (UK) had to leave the expedition early and is now back in the UK. Tim won't go in to the medical details but suffice to say he is fine - he just had an episode that we felt warranted further investigation in Kathmandu and returning to altitude was not an option.

Summit Climb (South) – Stewart Edge, Squash Falconer

At present Beow Lim, Dan Mazur and Nawang Nuri Sherpa are in Camp 1. They climbed up to the icefall today from Base Camp. Up in Camp 2 is Squash Falconer, Stewart Edge, Alex Holt, Gavin Vickers, Jangu Sherpa, Sange Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Dorje Sherpa also Mitch Lewis, Paula Leonard, Thile Nuru Sherpa, Lakpa Nuru Sherpa and they plan to go up to Camp 3 tomorrow.

Adventure Alternative – Gavin Bate

Earlier this morning (05:30 local time) the Sherpa team of Pasang, Lopsang and Furtemba left Base Camp and then around half an hour later Gavin, Mike and Dave. They all successfully navigated the icefall and reached Camp 1 without incident. The weather started to close in as the team reached the Western Cwm, but everyone in the Adventure Alternative team has now reached Camp 2 despite climbing in white out conditions for the final couple of hours. They join Mingma Sherpa who climbed to Camp 2 from Base Camp yesterday. The whole team will now take a well earned rest and try to re-hydrate and re-couperate in preparation for the next stage of the climb up to Camp 3 on the Lhotse face. The current outline plan is to have a rest day tomorrow so that they spend at least two nights at Camp 2 before pushing on any higher.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

At 8.45am local time this morning Paul, Dean, Lhakpa, Tendi & Gelu reached the summit of Mount Everest! At noon Paul, Lhapke Dorje, Tendi and Gelu had all returned safely to the South Col. Their plan is to spend the afternoon having a well deserved rest, hydrating and no doubt a long nap. Meanwhile, Ang Dorje reports that the second summit team (Dominic, Dominika, and Jesse) are making good progress on their way to Upper Camp 3 and will be their shortly.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

Zac reports that all the team have made their final acclimatization preparations, so now need to rest at Base Camp and wait for any sign of a weather window. Andrew, Ben, George, Geordie & Zac reached 7500m. Simon, Greg, Jaysen & Chris reached 7400m. Heather, Mark, & Nick reached 7300m. Jason, Stephen & Salam reached 7100m but had to turn back because of bad weather.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

As you know most of the teams camp at the North Col was badly damaged by weather. Thankfully Nurru, one of there Sherpa’s who was up there, had the presence of mind to put all the high altitude equipment (O2 masks, down suits etc) in a tent which was weighed down with O2 cylinders so it was not blown off the skinny North Col ridge by the colossal winds. The forecast for a suitable window to push for the Summit appears to have slipped by 48 hours as the weather strategists have the jet stream right over the summit until the weekend. Team 1 (Hempie, Duffy and Charlie) are now at Advanced Base Camp and are going to wait there. Team 2, are now back at Base Camo as our Doc, George Rodway, who is one of the world’s leading experts on high altitude physiology, if not the leading expert, is adamant that it is better to wait low as the body is not deteriorating at the same rate as it is higher up. They will more than likely make there way to ABC tomorrow.

10th May:

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin, Dave and Mike had dropped down to Dingboche (4,300m) for a couple of nights to recharge and give their lungs a chance to enjoy the oxygen levels that you get from being at a lower altitude but they are all back up at Base Camp now where Matt Caldwell has joined the team as comms manager to take care of all the affairs at Base Camp while the team attempt to summit. Good news is that they are all feeling strong, healthy, having plenty of "craic" and are looking forward to their summit bid as they move up from Base Camp (5,350m) tomorrow morning, Mingma Sherpa has already set off for Camp 2 to prepare the food for the team in the higher camps. Camp 2 has apparently experienced some very high winds and a few teams have lost tents and sustained considerable damage to their camps, fortunately the Adventure Alternative camp escaped the carnage, largely due to their Sherpa's getting up to Camp 2 early to claim one of the more sheltered spots. A rough plan is for the team to reach Camp 2 on the 11th May and spend two nights there before climbing to Camp 3 on the 13th May where the team will spend another couple of nights before finally moving up to Camp 4 on the 15th May. Camp 4 is the final stop before the summit bid and the team hope that a late start on the 15th evening will hopefully mean they will summit Everest around 09.00am Nepal time (04.00am UK time) on the morning of Monday 16th May, obviously this is all dependent on the weather and the team progress.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard

There is now a weather window on Saturday 14th May that the team is aiming for and it takes 5 days from Base Camp so they leave tonight!

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Caroline is reporting from Base Camp for the Adventure Consultants team on there first summit bid. Dean has just called in from the South Col where he and Paul have been resting on oxygen for the afternoon. He reports that the winds that had made conditions quite cold earlier this afternoon have now dropped off and that it is a beautiful evening up there. This bodes well for the evening ahead and here at Base Camp the afternoon snows have just cleared to reveal clear skies above. Their planned departure time from the South Col is 10pm local time

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

The team leave in a couple of hours for there journey back up the Ronbuk Glacier and leave all the trimmings of Base Camp behind them. The walk to Intermediate Camp should take them five hours. They heard last night that there camp which they set at the North Col two weeks ago has taken a battering from the recent high (100mph) winds they have had. This has come from another team who arrived at Base Camp yesterday having just come down from there. They said that several tents were blown away and others ripped to shreds. This is a bit of a concern as we have left all our high altitude stuff up there - oxygen masks, cylinders, down suits etc. There is no way of knowing how they have been affected until they get someone up there, which they will try and do today. Apart from that everyone is in good form.

9th May:

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

David will leave Base Camp tomorrow morning at around 1-2 am for the first stage of his attempt on the Summit – another climb through the Khumbu Icefall and slog to Camp 2, where he will spend 1 or 2 nights. From Camp 2, David will once again climb the Lhotse Face to Camp 3 and spend a further night. The following day he will climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4, arriving a little before midday and simply resting the afternoon away. That very evening, between 11pm and 1 am, he will crawl from his tent and push for the summit of Everest, hopefully arriving at dawn.

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

As the team prepares for their summit push they have been spending the last few days enjoying the comforts of Base Camp. They will be burning a huge amount of calories as they ascend the mountain for the final time. So they have been feasting on delights such as braised lamb shanks in a mint sauce, crisp pastry quiches and even sushi. Gavin's afternoon teas have gained a reputation at Base Camp for serving scones fresh from the oven, complete with jam and cream. If weather conditions are favorable the team will set off in the early hours of tomorrow for Camp 2. Everyone is feeling fit, strong and well-rested and are looking forward to the challenge ahead.

Dream Guides – Kenton Cool

Kenton & Seb have just returned to Base Camp

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

A break in winds has enabled Deano and Paul to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3. They are both resting in their sun-baked tent while sucking in O's on their Lhotse Face perch. Tomorrow will see them head to Camp 4 and then tomorrow night, on the 10th their summit bid will begin. They are aiming to summit by mid morning on the 11th. Meanwhile, the second summit bid got underway this morning when Ang Dorje, Dominika, Dominic, and Jesse headed up to Camp 2. They will rest at Camp 2 tomorrow before heading up the Lhotse Face for a prospective summit day of Friday 13th! This is actually an auspicious day in the Tibetan Calendar. As Dean and Paul descend the Lhotse Face on the 12th the second summit team will move into their tents. ‘Hot bunking' on the South Col! At least that is the plan as it stands. All our climbing Sherpas are mobilised above BC to support both summit bids.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

The members now know there summit teams and timings. They have two teams of three who will follow each other up the mountain 24 hours apart. The first team is made up of Hempie, Duffy and Charlie and the second one of the Doc, Rod and Justin. Rikki, our last member, left this morning with the Walkers as he has been struggling with a nasty chest infection, so he is en route to Zhangmu for heavier air for a few days to try and beat it, before returning for his own summit bid. The first team will leave Base Camp tomorrow and the rest will follow them up the mountain the day after.

8th May:

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

All of the expedition members, both Sherpa’s and westerners are now at Camp 2 in position to launch a summit bid in the next few days. They have a tentative summit plan and they hope that the weather forecast holds true.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The main team have spent today doing O2 briefing and getting themselves ready for their summit push. They will be leaving Base Camp about 1am to go through the Ice fall and get to Camp 2 before it gets to hot.

Ice 8000 - James Ketchell

James reporting from Base Camp says there may be an opportunity on the 13th for a possible summit but they will just have to wait and see. Once James get the go ahead he will climb to Camp 2 and rest for 24 hours. From there he will climb the Lhotse face up to Camp 3. It is at this point that he will be on oxygen as he will now be at over 7000 meters above sea level. The next morning will see James climb to Camp 4 where he will spend 24 hours resting before he leaves for the summit.

7th May:

Summit Climb - Stewart Edge

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The teams little holiday in Pheriche was over all too soon as this morning they made the call to head back to Base Camp. The weather forecast is looking promising for the coming days so they decided that the best plan was to get in position back at Base Camp. Tomorrow is a rest day for the main team in Base Camp but they have a busy schedule planned. They will go over the oxygen brief for the summit bid, prepare food for the upper mountain and have individual briefings with each member prior to the summit phase.

6th May:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

All 12 climbing members of the expedition are now resting in Base Camp. The 10 members of the team who have been in Nepal since late March have completed the final acclimatization phase of their climb and have returned to Base Camp after sleeping in Camp 3. Richard and Steve, who arrived in Base Camp several weeks behind the main team, are making great progress and have already spent their first night in Camp 1. Meanwhile the Sherpa team has been working hard and has placed most of the equipment needed for the summit push at Camp 4. The Sherpa’s are returning to Base Camp today and will rest for several days before making their next trip onto the mountain. Jagged Globe will now start to study the weather forecasts in earnest looking for the most favorable summit window. The earliest date that they could consider a summit bid is around the 14th of May, and this would require leaving Base Camp on May 10th.

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

The Altitude Junkies Sherpa’s have now completed the oxygen load carry to the South Col have returned to Base Camp for a well deserved rest. They received a lot of comments from other Sherpa’s heading to the Col over the past few days, remarking on how fast they were carrying loads to the high camp. The waiting game has now started and each morning at 5 am Nepal time they check the latest weather forecast via the internet to decide when to go for the summit. As a suitable weather window approaches, they will shift themselves into position in Camp 2, where they will continue to monitor the weather forecasts, before making a push for the top.

Dream Guides – Leader Kenton Cool

After a rapid acclimatization schedule and early weather window, Kenton has summited Everest for his 9th time. He summitted at around 7:30 am local time and then returned to Camp 4 three hours later...by now he will be lower on the mountain.

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

The team are all back at Base Camp. They set off back up the hill 4 days ago and went straight to Camp 2. After a rest day they then made there way over to The Lhotse Face to gain some more altitude and touch Camp 3. It's quite a way and it's a lot of effort to go and sleep there so generally people touch Camp 3 and then drop down again to Camp 2, and then on down to EBC. They have now done there rotations at altitude and are now ready for the green light. Obviously there are all the logistics to make sure are in place, and that everyone is still fit and healthy, the Climbing Sherpa’s are rested, there are enough tents and oxygen in the right places on the hill.

Summit Climb - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

Yesterday the Summit Climb team went down to the teahouse tents near the Rongbok Monastery for some team building and fun! They spent the night hanging around a steel stove, drinking, joking, playing some cards and learning some Tibetan. There Sherpa's are working very hard to get the final logistics in place, like food, tents and oxygen in the higher camps. Meanwhile they are enjoying the good food Samdien cooks for them in Base Camp. So everything is fine. They will probably stay a couple more days in Base Camp until they move up to Advanced Base Camp again.

Adventure Alternative – Gavin Bate

Gavin reports that they are now all in Base Camp, and the Sherpa’s are enjoying a well-deserved rest after ten days at Camp 2, during which they have put in all the gear for a summit bid.

5th May:

Dream Guides - Leader Kenton Cool

It looks like the weather forecast is promising for an early summit this year, and Kenton and Seb have left Base Camp getting in position hoping to take advantage of this.

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

The last few days from David went like this. On the 2nd May as David approached Camp 3 he had totally lost the feeling in the tops of nearly all his right-hand fingers. He eased into camp, an hour ahead of the next climber, dropped to his knees and once again thrust his hands deep into his armpits. He felt nothing for 5-8 minutes before a surge of excruciating, tear inducing pain as the tips effectively thawed. His torture was noticed by a Sherpa and he ushered David into a tent to try and further warm his hand using a small Prima gas stove. By 4pm, David had made a decision. Despite being the fastest and strongest climber, and with the exception of Adrian, faster than all the guides, going higher than he already had without oxygen was very likely going to cost him his fingers. After talking things through with Adrian and listened to what he had said David formally resigned from his personal oxygenless attempt and switched to a 'with oxygen' programme. So, He joins the remainder of the group, switching to their more conventional schedule in order that he attempts to summit a fourth time for his charities and himself. On the 3rd May David and the other members descended to Camp 2 for the night and then the morning after continued down to Base Camp. There return to Base Camp will be an opportunity to replenish energy reserves, wash and wait for a suitable weather window - at which point they attack the mountain once again.

4th May:

Summit Climb - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

The last update had there position located on the North Col at 23,000 feet, where the group was taking a rest day. On May 1 the group left the North Col and headed up toward Camp 2 at 25,000 feet. The team performed well with most people at least reaching close proximity to the camp. Since the plan was to return all the way to ABC on the same day (21,000 feet) rather than spend a third night on the Col (23,000 feet), a hard turn around time of 14:00 p.m. was in place. After nearly reaching Camp 2 the group descended all the way to ABC where the team spent one night and on May 2 the group returned to lower base camp at 17,000 feet. There acclimatization is now complete. They plan to spend several days at the lower base camp closely watching the weather forecasts and once a weather window opens up, they will head up the mountain for the final summit push.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tait

The team has finally arrived at the last station of their acclimatization rotation - Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face. “Everyone is in their tents and even though the team is shattered they are all well and having a good time,” Adrian reported by radio. The team left Camp 2 at 4am and they had all trickled in at around 10am, which means they had made very good time. They are staying one night at Camp 3 at about 7,200m (23,760ft) before they will descend the Lhotse Face and spend another night at Camp 2. The team will be back in Base Camp on 4 May.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The team has dropped back down to Pheriche to breathe some thicker air and rest before the summit push. This has also given some of there hard working Sherpa the chance to go home and visit their families for a few days. The first stage of the summit fixing will start tomorrow with a team of Sherpa made up from most of the big companies here carrying and fixing to the Baloney approximately 8500m.Then finish the fixing on the 6th all the way to the summit.

3rd May:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

All ten of the main South Col team, including the two leaders David and Andy, arrived in Camp 3 mid-morning today after scaling the Lohtse Face. Weather conditions were favorable with low winds although temperatures were well below freezing when they set off not long after day break. They plan on spending a night at the 7,300 meter high camp in order to acclimatize better for their summit push later in the month.

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

Phil reports that they are now enjoying there second rest period after there second acclimatization rotation on the mountain. The plan now is to take regular day hikes to keep the body in shape and the mind active. This morning, the Sherpa’s made their last load carry to Camp 2, and tomorrow they will start to move the oxygen into place at the South Col. The Sherpa’s will be using oxygen from Camp 3 whilst carrying the heavy oxygen bottles, so hopefully, by May 5th, all of there loads are in place at the high camp. Phil is now consulting the daily weather forecasts to decide when the best weather window is for his climbers.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tate

While the Everest team has spent their second night at 6,400m (21,120ft), two Sherpa’s nipped up to Camp 2 at the crack of dawn on Saturday to deliver pizza for the group to enjoy after their first trip to the bottom of the Lhotse Face. As far as the rope fixing on Everest is concerned, the Sherpa’s of the different operators were bang on schedule with the rope having been fixed all the way to the South Col by 30 April. “It’s amazing but we are following last year’s schedule and I am happy it is all working so well and the different teams are cooperating,” Russell said. Sunday will be yet another relaxing day for the Everest team up on Camp 2, who is preparing for their first ascent to Camp 3 tomorrow.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Today all members are enjoying a rest day at Base Camp. Sleep-in, too much coffee, banter, books, naps and the sun has come out to warm there spirits and bodies up, not to mention dry the droves of laundry. At the opposite end of the spectrum the teams Sherpa’s are doing the extraordinary hard work that makes there summit attempt possible. For the past two days there climbing Sherpa’s have carried loads of oxygen and tents from Camp 2 to the South Col. The team are planning to do a ‘drop back' tomorrow which involves hiking down valley to a town called Pheriche where they will catch a change of scenery, drink in some thick air and gather there motivation for summit bid.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

Zac reports that the majority of the team arrived back at ABC yesterday. Heather and Nick stayed at intermediate camp last night and arrived into ABC today. Chris, Stephen & Salam had an extra day at Base Camp and are trekking up today. Ten of the team will head up to the North Col tomorrow and push up to 7500m the day after. The rest of the team will have a rest day before heading up to the North Col.

2nd May:

Himalayan Experience – David Tait

David left Everest Base Camp on 28th April, David has spent the past couple of nights at a snowy and cold (-20) Camp 2. His plans are as follows, He will leave for Camp 3 at 4am on 2nd May (today) and spend a couple of nights there, return to Camp 2 for two nights and then back up to Camp 3, for one night and then ascend to Camp 4 (8000m) where he will 'tag it' before descending to Base Camp. David seems to be in good spirits

Summit Climb - Stewart Edge

Stewart reports that he is now back at Base Camp after the latest acclimatization trip up to Camp 3. He found the hike between Camp 2 and 3 a hard one. It involved going up the near vertical Lhotse face. Most of this was done using fixed ropes, with each step requiring you to dig your toes into the ice to get a good enough grip. Although the going was slow, with him having to take a break every few steps, the view was incredible. All the team handled it well, and they are now looking forward to a well deserved rest week.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Today the rest of the Adventure Consultants team took what will hopefully be their last trip through the icefall prior to there summit bid, everyone made good time. Dr John had remained in Base Camp to perform some dentistry on one of there cook staff. By late morning everyone was back in Base Camp, enjoying the luxuries of hot showers, clean clothes and thicker air. As Dominic pointed out – each time you head to the next highest camp, the previous camp suddenly seems much more luxurious than before! They continue to watch the weather forecasts to get an idea when exactly their summit bid will be. Back on the mountain there Sherpa team has been working extremely hard, putting everything in place at the South Col for when the weather gods cooperate and they head for the top. At this stage all of there supplies should be at the Col by tomorrow, so again another great effort made by the Sherpa’s!

Seven Summits - Geordie Stewart

Geordie says that he is heading up the mountain again tomorrow morning. The plan is to try and reach 7500m on this acclimatization trip. Geordie will be moving to ABC in one move tomorrow. Over 20km and 1400m ascent will make it a long day despite being acclimatized to that height. He will take a rest day before moving to the North Col at 7000m. It should be slightly easier 2nd time around but any trip to that altitude is always a lung bursting experience and speed is usually reduced so that a snail would fancy its chances in a head-to-head. Having reached 7000m, he will spend a night at the Col then try to reach 7500m up the North Ridge. After reaching that checkpoint he will spend another night on the North Col before dropping to ABC then Base Camp in consecutive days.

1st May:

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

Although the team is resting they have been busy practicing injections today just in case they have an issue on summit day and need to start administering some high altitude drugs. There was also a talk the drugs that they will be carrying on summit day as well as discussing there plans and contingencies for getting from Camp 3 to The South Col and The South Col to the summit and back. This afternoon they then had a look at the masks and oxygen system so that everyone in the team is thoroughly coherent with everything that they may / will encounter between now and the top. Tomorrow is another rest day but they will be having a gentle jaunt to Pumori Base Camp for a leg stretch and hopefully views across to The South and North Col. They plan to head up for Everest Camp 2 on Tuesday.

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin reports that he is back in Base Camp now, after a successful three nights at Camp 2 and a touch of Camp 3. Meanwhile up at Camp 2 the Sherpa’s left this morning for Camp 4 (south col at 8000m) where they will drop the final supplies for a summit bid. Oxygen bottles, tents, gas stoves and cooking gas; at this stage they are concerned only with the absolute essentials. So this afternoon Gavin and other team members will be doing a dry run of personal equipment for those final days. Mike and Dave will be doing a dress rehearsal, trying everything on: thermals, downsuit, balaclavas, goggles, oxygen mask, summit boots and socks. Gavin has set a challenge for the team in the coming days, they intend going right up to Camp 2 for an overnight stay, another visit up to Camp 3 and then back down to Base Camp. This will coincide with there Sherpa’s coming back down after their stint putting in the final camps. They will then all be back at Base Camp for a long rest and a look at the summit time.

30th April:

Dream Guides – Leader: Kenton Cool

Kenton reports on what he’s been up to the past week. Kenton and Seb left Base Camp on Sunday and climbed up to Camp 2 in a great time, they got there before the sun totally zapped them. Camp 2 is situated under the vast SW Face of Everest made famous by Sir Chris Bonnington’s expedition of 1975, it sits around 6400m and although its there main staging point on the expedition it is still a basic camp. After a rest day at Camp 2 on Monday they decided to climb up to Camp 3 (7200m), half way up the Lhotse face. After a very very cold start (Seb even had to take his boots off to warm his toes) they got to the Bergshrund in less than 2 hours and finally into the sunlight and some warmth. The climb up to Camp 3 proved to be very icy and the lack of traffic at this stage of the season means that the climb felt harder than it normally would be. The weather closed in by the time they arrived into Camp 3 and the snow steadily fell, in fact it fell all day and most of the night. Waking up on Wednesday they were greeted to just under 2 feet of fresh snow, it proved to be an easy decision, another rest day. On Thursday both Kenton and Seb braved the cold and returned to the Lhotse face. Due to the new snow on the face the climb proved to be easier than two days before. They both spent sometime sitting soaking up the atmosphere before heading back down the ropes and then to Camp 2. Seb decided to stay an extra night at Camp 2 while Kenton left to return to Base Camp at around 3.30pm.

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

All the team members and Sherpa’s are now down at Base Camp after there second rotation on the mountain. They had originally planned to depart Base Camp for Camp 2 on the 29th, but there was a storm to the East and West of Everest developing so they decided to bring the schedule forward a day. The storm that was developing was NOT going to affect Everest itself but they decided to throw caution to the wind, and be down in Base Camp on the day it was at it's strongest in case it somehow changed direction. On the 28th they all climbed directly to Camp 2 to test there stamina levels and all the team did well. The next stamina test the following morning was to climb and tag Camp 3, which went well. Altitude Junkies have now got all there supplies and oxygen at Camp 3 and will wait for the fixed ropes to be finished to the South Col, hopefully today or tomorrow. The teams Sherpa’s then can complete their final load carrying of oxygen to the high camp in anticipation of a good weather window for the summit attempt.

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

The team is now back from 3 nights on the hill. Tim reported that the journey to Camp 1 was totally stupendous. “Having only ventured a third of the way in to The Khumbu Icefall the day before we suddenly found ourselves covering a lot of new terrain. In particular - LADDERS. Ladders over small gaps, ladders with broken rungs, wobbly ladders, bent ladders, ladders against walls and ladders over huge yawning crevasses. Top tip? DON'T LOOK DOWN!” Once everyone arrived at Camp 1 it was time to get settled in for one night. It was pretty windy and snowy and as a result the trail was blown over. They were a little concerned that they may find themselves heading to Camp 2 and end up in a white out, in crevasse territory and with no way of knowing where the safe route went, so they opted for a second night at Camp 1. When we arrived at Camp 2 the next day they were all very well acclimatized from the benefit of 2 nights at Camp 1. The news was that there may well be some snow coming in so they opted to come on down after 3 nights on the hill. A fourth night would have been good but in the end they preferred to be at Base Camp if it snowed, than to be at C2. The journey down was reasonably straight forward and everyone was down in 4 to 5 hours. They are sure how long we'll be down for but they envisage having a couple of rest days and then heading straight back to Camp 2 for a 3 or 4 night foray with a visit to Camp 3. Tomorrow all team members will be practicing drawing up and giving injections as well as swotting up on the high altitude drugs that they will be carrying (but hopefully not needing). Everyone will have their own supply - just in case. They will also be having a session using the oxygen sets and masks.

Summit Climb - Stewart Edge, Squash Falconer

Stewart reports they are at Camp 3 for a second night and that they have been up to 7,300 meters acclimatizing. Stewart says “ Lhotse face is awesome but too steep”. They hope to be back down on Sunday.

29th April:

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

The team has now arrived back in Base Camp after 3 nights on the mountainside. They report that the Khumbu Icefall and the Western Cwm was amazing.

Adventure Alternative – Gavin Bate

Gavin did not return to Base Camp yesterday (as indicated he would) but instead spent another night at Camp 2 with Pasang Tendi, Dave and Mike to help with acclimatization, with a possibility of heading up to Camp 3 today. The team woke this morning feeling really strong and have pushed on up to Camp 3, which they all reached safely and are now back down at Camp 2 where they will spend another night. To reach camp 3 the team had to first walk to the foot of the Lhotse Face where there were high winds in the morning, scaling the Lhotse Face required everyone to be clipped in to the fixed ropes which are in place, and a long climb with the heat from the sun and the altitude making today a difficult task and very tiring. Everything seems to be running smoothly and Gavin is incredibly happy with how the expedition has progressed, all 4 camps have been set up, the weather has been reasonably kind (so far!) and the team is feeling good. There was talk of a storm brewing and as a result a few teams have dropped back down to Base Camp rather than risk pushing on to Camp 3 but Camp 2 is still very busy and quite a few teams joined the Adventure Alternative team today for the climb to Camp 3.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tait

Yesterday morning, at about 2.45am all members and guides were eating and drinking, trying to take in as many calories as possible before leaving base camp for the next six days. The Himalayan Experience team left Base Camp at 3am on the dot, looking strong and confident. All of the members, guides and Sherpas are equipped with avalanche transceivers and radios and they are required to call in when they reach certain landmarks. Everyone reached Camp 2 safe and sound which will be their temporary home for the next four nights.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The team spent overnight at Camp 3 at 7500m on the 2nd acclimatization cycle and is notoriously one of the worst of the trip (the next time they sleep here will be on the summit bid and sleeping on oxygen but not this time). There has been much snow on the mountain in the last few days which made yesterday's journey from Camp 2 to Camp 3 harder in terms of breaking trail but easier in terms of climbing on snow for much of the Face rather than blue ice. Camp 3 is around 2rds the way up scratched into the side of the Face (no sleep walking here) and the route to Camp 4 picks up the balance. As draining as last night was, it is a critical final building block in there acclimatization process. The next time we are here will be on there way to the summit. Tomorrow they will head back to Base Camp for some rest.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

Yesterday the following people made it to the North Col: Geordie, George, Stephen, Ben, Andrew, Garry, Chris and Zac. Jaysen, Greg, Jason and Salam stopped 20m short at the last ladder. Mark got to 6850m before turning round. Ross got to 6800m. Nick has had sickness and has decided to head down to Base Camp to recover. Heather has a very burnt face but is planning to head up to the Col tomorrow depending on the weather. There has been a lot of snow, ABC has had a bout 9 inches, which sadly means that Lhakpa Ri is not safe to climb. Graham and David are now at Intermediate camp and will arrive at ABC tomorrow.

Summit Climb - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

As was posted yesterday the team has arrived at the advanced base camp at 21,000 feet for the second time. There plan is to move to the North Col at 23,000 feet for 3 nights and during that time move and simply touch Camp 2 at 25,000 feet. This is part of the ongoing acclimatization process.

28th April:

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Poached egg and porridge was on the Base Camp breakfast menu at 1.30am before heading into the icefall. The benefits of acclimatization meant all the team reached Camp 1 between 6.30 - 7.30am when it was still shady. After a break at Camp 1 they proceeded to Camp 2 where the welcome relief of the sun was short lived. Within an hour temperatures soared to almost unbearable heat, something the Western Cym is legendary for. Everyone was relieved to be done for the day and sitting around the lunch table knowing tomorrow is a rest day.

Ice 8000 - James Ketchell

James reports to say the last three days and nights have been spent on the mountain. The first day was a trip back up to Camp 1 where he stayed the night. He managed to sleep well and the next day moved to Camp 2 about another 300-400m height gain. Now he was in slightly different terrain as to what he passed through the ice fall. Some of the crevasse where now getting a lot deeper and wider so that meant the ladders that crossed them were getting longer too. Some years on Everest there has been up to thirteen ladders tied together. This year James thinks the most is five. At Camp 2 there is actually a mess tent which has a heater that James was looking forward to benefiting from. He spent the next day just resting and eating which is good for acclimatization. The following morning it was time to come back down to Base Camp. It only took one hour to get from Camp 2 to Camp 1 but then things really slowed up once he got into the ice fall. James found it so hard to get a rhythm going as your always stopping, starting, climbing over boulders and crossing ladders. He is now back at Base Camp nice and warm and all showered up. James and the rest of the team have the next few days to rest until they climb up to Camp 3. After that there acclimatization phase will be over and they will be looking for a weather window to summit.

Summit Climb - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

After a couple of days rest in Base Camp the team went up to Advanced Base camp again at 6400m. They found that the walk was a lot easier after having some acclimatization from the previous time up. Tomorrow they will rest here and check out the conditions on the mountain; the wind is gone now, but they got some snow instead. There plan is to spend the night at the North Col – Camp 1 at 7010m, organize there camp there and then move on to Camp 2 between 7600-7800m where they will try to find a good spot. They will not sleep there but instead go back again to Camp 1, these days high on the mountain are needed to finalize there acclimatization. Then they will go down for there final rest before the summit push.

27th April:

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

A schedule for the forthcoming week to ten days has emerged. David and the other team members plan to leave Base Camp at 2-3am tomorrow, the 28th, to first negotiate the Khumbu icefall before moving directly to Camp 2. David will be spending a few days longer at both Camp 2 and Camp 3 than the rest and most importantly, pushing on to sleep one night at Camp 4 [South Col. 8000m], before descending for a meaningful rest. At this point he should be 'ready' for his summit assault.

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin has reached Camp 2 safely and has now teamed up with Dave, Mike and Pasang who also reached Camp 2 from Camp 1 earlier today. All of the team are well and feeling good and will return to Everest Base Camp tomorrow.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tait

After another rest day at Base Camp the members are slowly getting ready to go up on the mountain for Phase Two of their acclimatisation programme. The team, guides and Sherpa’s are due to leave Base Camp on Thursday at the crack of dawn to go to Camp 2, where they will be staying for four consecutive nights. The group will then spend one night at Camp 3 before heading back down again for another night at Camp 2 and then back to Base Camp. The Sherpa team, who has been fixing the ropes up to Camp 3 has just got back to Base Camp and despite the hard work they have been doing they are looking pretty fresh. There will be two cooks at Camp II who will be looking after the team serving them breakfast, lunch and dinner. “These guys will be working from 4am to 10pm.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Yesterday's afternoon snow storm lasted all night dropping 15-30cm of new snow at Camp 2. Several times during the night team members awoke to the sound of there Sherpa’s banging the accumulating snow from there tents to stop them collapsing under the weight. Mike and the team at Base Camp decided not to try coming up to Camp 2 with all the new snow and will try again tomorrow.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

Adventure Peaks report that there has been a huge amount of snow in the Everest region right down to Base Camp. Some of the Everest team reached the North Col yesterday. Those who didn’t climb yesterday will try tomorrow. Graham and David will head up to Intermediate camp tomorrow and reach ABC the day after.

26th April:

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin is starting to feel a lot better today thanks to a course of some heavy duty drugs and an abundance of electrolyte drinks every day. His three Sherpa's went up from Base Camp yesterday to start setting up camps 3 and 4. The weather has been a little strange over the last couple of days, there is really low visibility during the day and in general it has been much colder than previous years which seems to be resulting in many people developing the 'Khumbu' cough and chest infections earlier than normal. Gavin will probably head up the Icefall tomorrow by himself and hopefully he will be able to catch up with his clients Dave and Mike.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tait

All 11 members and three guides are happy to be back in their own little tents at Everest Base Camp after having spent two nights, and in Adrian’s and David’s case even three nights, on top of Lobuche East. Saturday morning, the team made their way back down to Lobuche Base Camp Phurba Tashi, Lhakpa Nuru, Ang Karma, Pasang and Pasang Kami quickly nipped up to the summit to pack up the tents and store everything away. “We left one tent pitched up there and put all the equipment inside as we need it again in about ten days, when the Lhotse team will do the same acclimatization climb on Lobuche East,” Phurba Tashi explained. Despite the fun on the hill, the team was relieved to be done with Lobuche Peak and to have ‘officially’ finished the first phase of the acclimatization programme. Over the next few days, the guides and members will be resting at Base Camp while there hard-working Sherpas will be carrying more loads to Camp 2 and Camp 3 and, weather-permitting, will be setting up the tents on the Lhotse Face.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

A few members (not British) left Base Camp at 2am this morning headed into the Icefall; it was cold, windy and snowing lightly. It was still very cold when they arrived at Camp 1 and after a hot tea and watching the sun getting closer to them they eagerly continued up to Camp 2. The rest of the team (including British) had another rest day and will be joining us up here at Camp 2 tomorrow.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

On Good Friday the team finally left Base Camp, after a week of acclimatizing and headed up for Interim Camp. They walked for about six hours and gained 600m over 10km. Doesn't sound like much but at those altitudes it is. The next day was a rest day. During the rest day and night it snowed heavily and they woke on Easter Sunday with the morbid news that the weather was too bad to continue up to the next camp, Advanced Base Camp (ABC). A tense discussion ensued. Those that had no problems were happy to sit it out. But a few others headed back down to Base Camp. This would mean an enormous effort to go back downhill, but there bodies and minds could rest in relative comfort and thicker air.

25th April:

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

Saturday evening was the first of two Base Camp party nights. The first is aptly titled 'Lobouche Liberation, Liquor Fest', and attracts all the Base Camp strays and waifs, David was the official barman. The second party will hopefully toast Everest summit success later in May. At 3pm on Easter Sunday it was snowing heavily once again. At 7.30, David bundled into the white-pod and set about conjuring up a party atmosphere. Despite his best efforts, the preponderance of males, the legacy of Lobouche exhaustion and diversity of personality precluded from a rave affair. Today, Monday dawned hazy, windy and downright cold. David is now into day two of his post Lobouche rest-period, the debate has begun as to when he [or the team] push higher through the icefall, past Camp 1 and on to Camp 2. A very rudimentary Camp 2 has been established by the Sherpa workhorses over the last week, but right now its only capable of housing a couple of people, David suspects he will get his marching orders for the 27th or at the latest 28th.

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

The team are now enjoying there third rest day at Base Camp. They seemed to have timed there Camp 2 rotation perfect based on the weather forecast services of Michael Fagin from the States. They experienced some wind at both Camp 1 and 2, but enough for them to handle. The last two days whilst they have been at Base Camp, the respective higher camps have seen wind and snow. Today they reviewed the oxygen system that they will be using from Camp 3 onwards. They plan to review the procedure a couple more times before actually using the system, but practice makes perfect as they say. The Sherpa crew has now completed all the load carries to Camp 2 where all there gear, food, kerosene and oxygen is now in place. When the ropes have been fixed to Camp 4 and the weather is suitable, they will start to ferry the oxygen loads to high camp in anticipation of the team’s summit attempt.

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

The team has had a foray in to The Khumbu Icefall. They plan to go up to Camp 1 tomorrow for 2 or 3 nights.

24th April:

Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart

Geordie is happy to say that he is feeling 100% better now after his food bug he got while trekking from Kathmandu to Base Camp. The past few days at Base Camp he has spent acclimatizing, resting and getting his mountain blessings. Geordie and other team members have had a couple of excellent treks to get there bodies accustomed to the lack of O2. They went to 5700m 2 days ago and hit 6000m yesterday which stands them in good stead for the coming challenges. The team had there Puja ceremony on the 18th. This is a crucial part of any Himalayan expedition. After this it was time to drink beer, rum & whiskey (at over 5000m it is a pretty effective combination) proceeded by a Sherpa dance and an afternoon nap. The plan is to go to Interim Camp today before heading up to ABC tomorrow. Advanced Base Camp is the launch pad for all expeditions and is at 6400m. Geordie will rest at ABC for probably 2 days before trying to get to the North Col at 7000m.

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

After nearly 3 weeks touring the Khumbu the team finally arrived at Everest Base Camp yesterday in rather snowy conditions. The acclimatization schedule seems to have worked a treat and everyone has had a great 1st night. Today has been a day of unpacking bags and boxes and discovering what we all sent out in the freight nearly 8 weeks ago. The ascent of Pokalde a few days ago was a great success and everyone reached the summit in under 2 hours from the Kongma La. Tomorrow the team be venturing in to the Khumbu Icefall - which apparently is in great condition this year with the widest span across a crevasse being 3 ladders connected together. The following day there intention is to pop up to Camp 1 (around 6,000m). All being well they will be at Camp 1 for 1 or 2 nights and then on up to Camp 2 (6,400m) for a night.

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

The team had a very successful climb on Island Peak (6,189m) and they summated after a grueling 19 hour summit day. While climbing on Island Peak they met another team with two South African climbers and a local guide, their preparation (or lack of it!) beggars belief and Gavin had to perform a rescue after both of the South African climbers took a nasty fall just below the summit. One of the climbers subsequently lost a boot and had we had to help the 3 of them down to safety (hence the 19 hour summit day!). Gavin had a bad dose of food poisoning which made the trek back up to Base Camp from Island Peak very difficult indeed, really bad stomach cramps and ‘Linford Christie' style dashes to the toilet have really taken their toll so for the rest of today he is just relaxing in the tent at Base Camp and trying to get his energy levels back up before he move up the mountain. There Sherpa team is well ahead of the game, Camp 2 is completely set up and they are starting to prepare Camp 3 tomorrow. The weather has settled in to a predictable daily routine at the minute, clear and sunny in the morning before clouding over at lunch time giving us a wet afternoon before clearing again in the evening. The temperature at night is averaging between -12 and -15 though there has been some heavy snow tonight and it is currently -18

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The Adventure Consultants team sends Easter Greetings from a snowy Base Camp. They awoke to snow covered tents and bed tea with a Cadburys cream egg. It’s the second day of rest for the climbers after their first rotation. They spent the day eating, drinking, and snoozing. Medically, all is well. The team is coping well with the environment.

23rd April:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

All the team has now enjoyed a few days rest to catch up on a shower, clothes washing and some good food. In the comfort of the Base Camp dining tent they went through the operations of the oxygen system which will be used from Camp 3 and above. With the mask and goggles on they looked more like jet fighter pilots than mountaineers. The days are starting to get longer there and the glacier which the Base Camp is set upon is slowly melting, but the blue skies in the morning are a warm welcome.

Altitude Junkies - Phil Crampton

The team is now back at Base Camp enjoying the very popular propane showers that they have along with imported sirloin steaks and wine. The plan is to rest and take regular hikes to Pumori Base Camp to keep them in shape before the next climb to Camp 2 and Camp 3 respectively.

Summit Climb - Stewart Edge, Squash Falconer

Yesterday the group descended 4000 (21000 to 17000) feet from ABC to the lower Base Camp covering a distance of approximately 13 miles. The descent is part of there acclimatization process. On a medical note it is noted that virtually everyone in the group is taking acetazolamide (diamox). This drug works through several mechanisms but clearly seems to accelerate the acclimatization process. The single most important adaptive process in ascent is an involuntary increase in ventilation. Normally the drop in carbon dioxide that occurs would suppress this process but at altitude increase ventilation persists in part due to exit of bicarbonate from the central nervous system. Diamox enhances the bicarbonate excretion from the kidney and therefore contributes to the ongoing stimulatory effect on respiration. In addition diamox has a dramatic effect in limiting Cheyne-Stokes respiration and allows sleep to be improved. Everyone in the group is well and very strong and anxious to continue in there summit attempt. Today is shower and wash day.

Ice 8000 - Leader: Rob Casserley, Becky Bellworthy, James Ketchell

This morning the team were blessed with some bright, sunny and warm weather and quite a few folks enjoyed their morning coffee sitting outside the dining tent in the sunshine with a view of the Khumbu icefall; which they had been making their way down only 24hours previously. They then spent an hour or so debriefing the first cycle up to Camp 2 and everyone had lots of positive things to say about the experience. The rest of the morning was one of domesticity with many folks doing laundry and tidying their tents. The afternoon was a blur of eating, dvd watching and napping for most members. Notwithstanding weather and members health they will have at least another two full days rest before commencing there second acclimatization phase on the mountain.

22nd April:

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tate

On Thursday at the crack of dawn all members, apart from David Tait guide Adrian who went a day earlier, left for the top of Lobuche East. The climb up the 20,190ft peak is part of Himalayan Experience's acclimatization strategy, whereby the team will stay up there for 2 nights to adapt their bodies to the high altitude. The group had already scaled Lobuche East on Monday when they spent 1 night at high camp to break up the journey. After the successful climb, the team came back to Lobuche camp to rest for one day. And while members and guides were resting, there Sherpas Phurba Tashi, Lhakpa, Ang Karma and Pasang Kami were preparing the summit platform for the tents to make sure the climbers will sleep on a more or less flat surface. Adrian and David, who is on a slightly different acclimatization schedule as he is attempting Everest without supplementary oxygen, have already been on top for one night. It was a cold morning (6am) when the 10 members and 2 guides started making their way to the summit. Once on the summit it was reported as “it's howling up there”. The team will come down from the top of Lobuche on Saturday morning and will go straight to Everest Base Camp after having been served a well-deserved breakfast by Phuri, Kur Bahadur and Mingma, who are doing a great job running Lobuche camp.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The team had hoped for some respite on their last night at Camp 2 but the ferocious wind proved to be unrelenting. With gusts of up to 100km/hour, and a sound that was reminiscent of a freight training barreling down the Lhotse Face, the thought of returning to Base Camp was even more inviting. Throughout the night three surrounding teams suffered major damage to their camp infrastructure but luckily the AC camp was spared any further damage. After a 3.45am wake up call everyone was ready to leave by 5am but the wind was still pounding camp. However, after 20 minutes or so the wind began to drop and by the time everyone had reached Camp 1 it was remarkably still. Everyone made good time down through the icefall and soon made it across and continued their descent to Base Camp.

20th April:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

The team made their first journey through the icefall all the way to Camp 1 yesterday. They left Base Camp at 3am to get through the icefall in the subzero temperatures while the huge ice seracs are frozen in place and therefore safer. Most of the team arrived at Camp 1 around 10am in windy conditions, which later deteriorated into near blizzard conditions into the night. Everyone acclimatized to the 6,100m altitude at Camp 1 without a problem, before they returned to Base Camp today at mid-morning. The plan now is to have a couple of rest days.

Altitude Junkies – Leader: Phil Crampton

The team are now at Camp 2, at 6,400 meters, enjoying the warm sun that is hitting there dining dome. They will spend three nights there in total for there first acclimatization rotation. The plan now is to find ways to occupy themselves for the next two full days while they sit eat and drink and allow there bodies to adjust the higher elevation.

Starlight - Stew Edge

Stew reports that the team set off at 04.30am when the icefall is at its most stable. They used ascenders to get up the steepest pieces of ice and ladders to cross the larger crevasses. The longest ladder was 3 stages and had a 100ft drop! They spent 2 nights at Camp 1 to acclimatize. On the second day they explored the route to Camp 2 winding up through the Western Cwm which is pretty flat but riddled with crevasses and many hidden with snow bridges. They are all now back at Base Camp having a couple of rest days before heading up to Camp 2 for a few nights. The team is all doing well and thriving in what is a pretty hostile environment

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Yesterday strong winds destroyed the teams Camp 2 Sherpa kitchen tent. A replacement is due up in the next day or two. There acclimatization walk this afternoon was rather chilly and saw more folks break an altitude record at 6650m on Everest's West Ridge access moraine. It would not have been night 1 at Camp 2 if there were not some altitude headaches, but fortunately they are mild and Dr John has been left in peace at Base Camp.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

All the team is acclimatizing well at Base Camp. Fitness levels are improving as are beards. They are sustained by a good diet of tasty food and healthy dose of accumulated wit and wisdom to pass the quiet hours. Today they received the blessings of the monks from Rongbuk Monastery- a moving ceremony. They look forward to pushing up to the higher camps.

19th April:

Summit Climb - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

Ed reports that this is the teams third day at ABC. Today they all got too wear our high altitude boots, crampons, ice-axe and harnesses and done some climbing training on a near by icefall. They are all doing reasonably well though coughing a bit from this mornings exercise. ABC camp is beautiful with a good view of the North Col and the top of Everest. A few groups are moving in today but it is not over crowded.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Yesterday afternoon Camp 1 got pounded by wind and snow. Any tiny opening in the tent zippers would create an internal spindrift storm of such ferocity that the inside would be covered in snow. Today as they sit in the Camp 2 dining tent the team is reminded that there was almost as much wind inside the tents as outside. Thai Curry was on the menu! This morning the wind dropped enough for them to do the Western Cwm shuffle to Camp 2 (6500m). At one point Dominic did a spectacular genuflect into a crevasse. Basil was there to applaud. This afternoon is all about spending even more time in there tents and all the other stuff that goes with adjusting to altitude, such as boredom, the occasional headache, a lot of cups of milk tea, book trading etc. They plan to stay at Camp 2 for three nights and go for some walks towards the base of the Lhotse Face. The Sherpa Team had done four days of back breaking work to set Camp 2 up.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

The team had their Puja ceremony today which ended with the usual grand finale of throwing flour at each other. They have been to 5500m so far with a couple more acclimatization walks planned before heading up to intermediate camp.

18th April:

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

The Big E team reports what started out as a nice morning had rapidly deteriorated to an awful afternoon. The clouds bubbled up and quickly filled the valley to then make it reasonably dark in Dingboche - so much so that they had difficulty seeing the cards and dice in the bakery! Not long after the thundering arrived as well. The team is on a well earned rest day and so they are staying put. Tomorrow they are of to a little camp at a grassy meadow on the way to the Kongma La and then 2 nights camping just below the col with some of the best views in The Khumbu looking across to Baruntse and Makalu. They will pop up Pokalde and then make there way to Everest Base Camp.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard, David Tait

On Saturday after lunch, all members, guides and some of the Sherpas headed down the valley to Lobuche Base Camp, where they stayed one night before ascending to high camp at 5,400 meters. The team will head for the summit today, Monday. After topping out they will return to Lobuche East base camp, where they will rest for a couple of days before going back up to sleep on the summit for two nights. With this acclimatization programme, the expedition cuts out too many trips through the icefall and has the chance to enjoy much better views than from Everest’s Camp 1, which lies on the bottom of the Western Cwm. “The group is doing well and everyone is healthy, including our Sherpas, who are as strong as usual,” Adrian reported. While the members were resting and acclimatizing at Everest Base Camp over the past few days, the Sherpa team has already made three trips through the icefall to carry up climbing gear, tents, ropes etc to Camp 1 and Camp 2.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Team members woke to the sound of wind on there tents this morning. They then walked for a couple of hours up towards Camp 2 and got excellent views of the upper basin including the Lhotse Face; our route up to the south col. They were impressed to see 5 ladders tied together to cross a very large crevasse and equally happy to find that there was another way around.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

Yesterday, Sunday the team held there Puja ceremony. This is an important service to make offerings to the mountain gods and bless there ice axes, crampons and summit boots. After the ceremony they had to pack up all there gear that they are sending to Advanced Base Camp (ABC). It will be a lot colder up there so they would need warmer clothing along and extra climbing gear. The Sherpas will go on ahead and set up a whole new camp so food, tents and everything will have to go up there. Today the expedition has 52 yaks arriving to transport the stuff but they have calculated that his won’t be enough. If they can’t get more they will have to make two trips. The team members are not going to ABC for maybe 10 days. They will spend a few more days at Base Camp and then start walking towards an intermediate camp between here and ABC. This is just a few small tents where they will spend two nights to acclimatize and break the journey.

17th April:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

Jagged Globe report that today is the first perfect sunny day in Base Camp for a week. It is also very calm with no wind although the weather forecast says that the summit winds will be high for a few days. All team members, staff and Sherpa assembled for the Puja ceremony that took place today. Tomorrow the Sherpas will carry more loads up to Camp 2 and the climbing team will leave Base Camp at 03.00am to go and spend their first night at Camp 1 at the entrance to the Western Cwm.

Altitude Junkies – Leader: Phil Crampton

They are now planning to climb to Camp 1 tomorrow and then continue to Camp 2 the following day, where we plan to spend four to five nights to assist in there acclimatization. They have a kitchen set up at Camp 1 and Camp 2 so all team members should be well catered for.

The Big E 2011 - Leader: Tim Mosedale, Partha Dey, Jen Larsen, Chris Cookson

After a 20Km trek up and down a 5,500m peak yesterday they are now based in Tagnag just below the Cho La pass and will be moving to there high camp (around 5,000m) tomorrow, before dropping down to Dzongla the following day. The team is all connecting really well together and everyone is in fine spirits and is already looking out for each other and concerned for everyone else's welfare.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Adventure Consultants reports from Camp 1 where they say it is a baking hot afternoon. They had a 3.00am start from Base Camp and everyone made good progress and they all made Camp 1 in 5 1/2 - 6hrs which is an excellent effort for there first complete trip up the icefall. Tomorrow the weather forecast promises an equally fine and hot day. The plans tomorrow is to crampon up and take a look into the Western Cwm and then return to Camp 1 for another night.

16th April:

Himalayan Experience - David Tait, Alan Millard

Today the team is starting an acclimatization climb to Lobuche East to get above 6,000m.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Late last night at 11.00pm a massive avalanche dropped between the twin peaks of Lingtren and Khumbutse and dusted Base Camp. There was no danger of any debris reaching Base Camp. Today the sun is out and had induced a round of showers between the team. Meanwhile eight of the expedition Climbing Sherpas and cooks are staying at Camp 2 doing the hard duty of preparing tent platforms and getting there camp established. The weather forecast indicates they should have good weather for the next few days while they are above base camp. Tomorrow will see the team have an early start and head through the icefall to Camp 1. The plan is to spend two nights at Camp 1 and then head to Camp 2 for three nights.

Ice 8000 - James Ketchell

James reports that the last few days have been a mix of relaxing and altitude training. Today he had his first shave for over two weeks which felt great. He has also tidied up his tent and got some washing down too. Yesterday James and a couple of team members decided to climb Kala Pattar which stands at 5500m. Once James started climbing he was soon out of breath quickly. He got his head down and carried on eventually reaching the summit. After a quick photo and a snickers bar he started his descent and 25 minutes later he was at the bottom. Some of Ice 8000 Sherpa team has today climbed to Camp 2 to get things ready for when James and the other team members arrive some time next week.

The Iceland Everest Expedition - Leader: David Hempleman-Adams, Graham Hoyland, Alan Hinkes, Malcolm Walker, Richard Walker, Graham Duff, Charles Hobhouse, Rod Hogg, Rikki Hunt, Justin Packshaw, Bob Wilson, Gina Waggott

The team has finally arrived into Everest Base Camp.

15th April:

Himalayan Experience - David Tait

David has been busy over the last few days. He had an early morning climb to the summit of Kala Patter 5650m. Upon reaching the top the so often breathtaking view was blocked by a wall of mist and cloud. Back at Base Camp Russell Brice asked David if he would like to climb to Camp 1, 'tag it' and immediately return the following day. It would be a wake up call at 03.30am and leave camp at 4am. When David woke up at 03.19am he said “every surface inside his tent was covered in ice”. Upon reaching the icefall to put on his crampons the temperature was approx -10. David reports of having crossed 10-15 aluminum ladders spanning gaping, bottomless crevasses in the icefall. Once up the top of the icefall it took a further 10 minutes to locate the Himex tent. Camp 1 was seriously cold he said. David covered the distance from Base Camp to Camp 1 in 3 hours 15 minutes. He is now safely back in Base Camp, tomorrow he aims to go down to Lobouche for a few days of acclimatization.

Adventure Peaks – Leader: Zac Poulton, Geordie Stewart, George Atkinson, Andrew Robertson, Jaysen Arumugum, Ben Thackwray, Simon Knighton, Greg Healey, Abdul Salam, Jason Masserlie, Mark Walsh, Nick Carter, Stephen Green

The team has now arrived at Base Camp (North Side) after spending last night in Zhang Mu. All members are doing well.

Summit Climb (South) - Squash Falconer

The team arrived at Base Camp on Friday 8th April. Squash is happy with there camp mostly because there's a shower tent! After a couple of rest days they spent some time checking and preparing there climbing gear and had a morning in the lower ice fall practicing climbing and descending techniques. They have also had there Puja ceremony where kit is blessed and prayers are said for a safe climb and return. Yesterday, after one more rest day at Base Camp, they hiked across to Pumori ABC (5,700m) to spend a night there acclimatizing at a higher altitude. The whole team made it over there in really good time and everyone was feeling good after a night at a higher camp.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Today the team climbed up under the slopes of Pumori to a location where they had views of the North Col of Everest and the Rongbuk Glacier in Tibet. The profile of Everest was clearly discernable with the distinct features of the South Summit, Hillary Step and main summit standing boldly prominently in view. After two hard days of load carrying, the teams climbing Sherpas have been enjoying a rest day which involves lots of boisterous card playing. Tomorrow morning will see them heading back up to Camp 2. Tomorrow the team members plan to have a complete rest day before heading up to Camp 1 on there first overnight trip.

Summit Climb (North) - Edward Buckingham, Dominique Pickett

The team arrived into Base Camp on the 9th April.  After a few days rest at Base Camp the team started to move up to the next camp. All is well for the entire team as they spend today acclimating at ‘interim camp’ as they make there way to Advanced Base Camp. The interim camp is located at 19K ft/ 5800 meters. The team spent last night and much of this afternoon playing Uno and having spirited discussions about music, movies, and places to live. No-one slept exceptionally well as they are adjusting to lower levels of available oxygen and chilly temps at night. Spirits are high though-out camp and everyone is remarkably healthy considering there surroundings.

14th April:

Jagged Globe – David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

The team had a dark 04.30am start today for there first trip into the icefall. They were pleased to find that the route is easier than in previous years with fewer metal ladders and fewer steep sections. The team climbed until 06.30am where they had reached a height of 5,650m before stopping for a warm drink and then descending back to Base Camp. After a good breakfast most of the team went back to bed for the rest of the morning. Tomorrow will be a rest day sorting food and equipment. There next outing into the icefall is planned for the 16th April.

Altitude Junkies – Leader: Phil Crampton

Altitude Junkies had there Puja ceremony on the 12th, the usual drinking beer and whiskey while covered in flour was switched from an early morning start to a lunchtime event. A few members have made their first trip into the icefall which went well. The teams sherpas have been busy with load carrying up to Camps 1 and 2.

Adventure Alternative - Leader: Gavin Bate

Today they ventured up to Camp 1. They were the first team to make it up there. There Camp 1 is close to the top of the icefall but they have worked hard to make it as comfortable as it can be. Gavin reported that here are 26 ladders in the icefall and a couple of very unstable sections. The top of the icefall is well flagged, zigzagging to the start of Camp 1. They arrived back in to Base Camp at about 5pm. There plan now is to go down to climb Island Peak for a few days and by the time they come back the Sherps will have put Camp 2 in place.

Himalayan Experience - Alan Millard

Alan is focusing on breathing at the moment. He says that every movement makes him out of breath and wonders how he ever is going to climb Everest. The teams own camp is away from the main Base Camp which is situated at the bottom of the Khumbu ice fall. The reason for this is to try and avoid illness, a simple cold at this attitude will leave the climber completely without energy. Alan says that they are waiting for there bodies to acclimatize to the thin air. When Alan first arrived into Base Camp he had a headache but a couple of aspirin did the trick for him. The ‘White Pod’ (large white tent) has a bar, TV, and deck chairs that acts as a lounge which help relieves the boredom while at Base Camp.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The team was up at 6am and away by 7am for more icefall training that took place this morning. Typical temperatures in the tents at 7.00am are around -7C. Today they climbed 200m vertical (about ¼ of the way to Camp 1) and climbed as far as the second ladder. By 10.30am they were back at Base Camp with there days work done. Tomorrow it is planned to have a break from the ice training and trek up to Camp 1 on Pumori. This location offers superb views which include the North Col of Everest. The Adventure Consultants sherpas had all put in a hard days work and carried loads to Camp 2 today.

13th April:

Himalayan Experience - David Tait, Alan Millard

Tuesday, after a hearty breakfast, the whole team gathered around the Buddhist altar for the traditional Puja in brilliant sunshine. This ceremony is very important for everyone, Sherpas, guides and members. The Sherpa crew had decorated the altar with the colorful Buddhist prayer flags and put some offerings, such as soft drinks, beer, whiskey, cake and chocolate around it and every expedition member brought a piece of their climbing gear to be blessed for their upcoming adventure. Today, Wednesday started with an acclimatization climb up Kalar Pattar, the famous view point of Mount Everest near Gorak Shep. The afternoon will probably be spent inside the tents or the ‘White Pod’ as the bodies of the team will have to rest for the next activity, which will be another acclimatization climb to the 6,119m-high Lobuche East peak in the next view days.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Today was the first day the team got to put on our crampons and actually step onto the Khumbu glacier. A lot of time was spent practicing climbing and crossing ladders and descending fixed ropes. They hope in the next few days to climb up through the Khumbu ice fall to Camp 1.

12th April:

Jagged Globe - David Hamilton, Andy Chapman, Alan Wade, Rodney Hogg, Gavin Melgaard, Steve W, Rich P, Andraas K, Tanel T, Adam P, Martin S, Geoff C, Dave G, Mark P

The expedition team is all comfortably settled into life at Everest Base Camp, and has had a busy few days. The climbing team has made two training trips into the lower sections of the Khumbu Icefall. Everyone has acclimatized well and this has been a good opportunity for everyone to brush up on energy efficient crampon and ice axe use, prior to our first climb to Camp 1. Yesterday the Jagged Globe sherpas made their first carry to Camp 1 and today they established the site of Camp 2. Over the next few days they will begin the process of moving the bulk of our supplies from Base Camp onto the mountain. The team hopes to make a few more training trips into the Icefall over the next few days. There Puja ceremony is planned for the 17th, and if the weather is suitable the team will move to Camp 1 for the first time on the 18th.

Himalayan Experience – David Tait

This morning at Base Camp David took his first 'shower' and underwear change since leaving Katmandu on the 31st March, 10 days ago!

David joined other team members for the Puja ceremony, where you ask the gods for a safe deliverance and passage on Mount Everest. After a nice but cold morning the afternoon saw snow again. There is talk of David making an early trip through the icefall to tag the newly established Camp 1.

Starlight - Stew Edge

Stew reports a great day out on the glacier testing out gear and practicing techniques such as using ropes, ascending vertical sections of ice, traversing over crevaces and abseiling. They have there puja ceremony tomorrow with all there sherpas. Stew also says that it has been snowing heavily again this afternoon

Adventure Alternative – Leader: Gavin Bate

Gavin and his team are now at Base Camp. They hope to head up tomorrow and Gavin thinks they will be one of the first teams to go up on the mountain.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

Today the Adventure Consultants team had there Puja ceremony. Tomorrow there Sherpas will begin carrying loads up to Camp 1 and Camp 2. Today after the Puja ceremony all members prepped there technical kits for ladder and icefall training that is planned for tomorrow.

Ice 8000 - James Ketchell

James arrived at Base camp yesterday. He says ‘It's like a small tent city here’. Spending his first night at Base Camp he said it was cold and he could hear were avalanches coming down the mountain around him. He is perfectly safe where he is but its send vibrations through the ground and sound's as if a train is passing right by him at 100mph. Today he got on with his chores, washing! Tomorrow James will be getting his crampons on for a little bit of climbing, just to warm up.

11th April:

Altitude Junkies - Leader: Phil Crampton

All of the climbing team arrived at base camp on the 9th April and are all doing well. Dorje Sherpa and Phil Crampton arrived a day earlier to help finish establish base camp. There Puja ceremony is planned to take place on the 12th and then they can start climbing.

Adventure Consultants - Dr John Apps, Caroline Blaikie, Dominic Jude

The team is settling in after arriving into base camp on the 10th April. A few days of rest now follows there trek in.

Himalayan Experience – David Tait

David Tait arrived at Mount Everest Base Camp (South side) at about 11.15am on Saturday 9th April. His tent is situated about a 10 mins walk away from the main camp near the icefall, this is so the hygiene is a little better. On arrival David unpacked and grabbed a much needed lunch. His tent is perched on a small ice-shelf, but David says that the floor is relatively flat. He also reported that it is snowing hard and the temperature is only a couple of degrees above zero inside his tent.