29th May: Distpatches Finished
As far as I can tell there are know more teams heading for the summit. Everyone seems to be off the mountain now and either at Base Camp or on there journey home.
26th May:
Adventure Peaks - Stephen Green
Stephen has returned to Base Camp and is currently with the rest of the Adventure Peaks team. After climbing to 8650m (the majority of the last push being without the aid of Oxygen due to an O2 equipment problem), Stephen had remained at Camp 3 (8300m) and hoped to join up with one of the American groups and stage a second summit attempt. However the shortage of Sherpa’s at this level and the dramatically waning weather window has meant that Stephen was unable to make this climb.
The team will be packing up and heading to Kathmandu shortly, then spending a week or so helping out at a local Orphanage, before hopping on a flight back to the UK.
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Five out of our seven climbers topped out on the Big E on the morning of the 23rd. The following climbers and their Sherpas reached the summit at the respective times.
Phil Crampton & Pasang Nima Sherpa - 7 AM
Jussi Juttien & Chheddar Sherpa - 8.12 AM
Anne-Mari Hyrylainen & Pasang Wongchu Sherpa - 8.15 AM
Ben Stuckey & Nima Neru Sherpa - 8.15 AM
Raphael Gernez & Pasang Dawa Sherpa
Margaret made the wise decision to turn around at the South Summit 50 vertical meters below the main summit due to the change in the weather conditions and the late hour of the day.
Mike, who is a seasoned Himalayan climber and an Everest veteran developed a case of HACE at 8,700 meters and was helped down the mountain by the following people who we are so grateful to for their assistance.
Both of our Sherpas, Sirdar Dorjee Sherpa, Lhapka Tsheri Sherpa and myself assisted Mike from the rock steps just below the South Summit all the way to the South Col. We were assisted by Willie and Damien Benegas along with their team doctor Roman and their Sherpa, Lhapka Nuru, who assisted Mike from the rock steps to the Balcony.
From the Balcony our Sherpas and I were assisted by Lhapka Rita, the Sirdar from Alpine Ascents who ascended from the South Col, Pasang Gumba Sherpa who was descending from the Mountain Trip expedition and Pasang Yula also descending from the Benegas Brothers expedition assisted to the South Col.
Mike showed a huge improvement and travelled on his own power from the South Col to Camp 3 but again found himself needing help from Camp 3 down. Dorjee and Lhapka Tsheri Sherpa along with some mental coaching from Bill Allen of Mountain Trip got Mike back to Camp 2 after an epic two day descent. Our Sherpas Temba Bhote, Cheddar, Pasang Nima, Pasang Wangchu and Pasang Dawa all ascended from Camp 2 to assist.
On the advice of the doctors from the Himalayan Rescue Association we helicoptered Mike out from camp two so he could seek medical attention immediately. His condition is good at present.
Peak Freaks
Everyone is down at Base Camp except Angel and Fergus who were at Camp 1 and will be in Base Camp later today (26th). All members should be leaving Base Camp tomorrow headed to Pheriche, then the next day to Namche Bazaar where they will get in touch.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Everyone is now safely back in Base Camp, so now a final round up:
Congratulations to Max O'Meara, Brendan O'Mahoney, Matt Snook, Peter Sunnucks, Stu Peacock, Sonam, Nima, Phurba, Norbu, Tsring and Raj in reaching the summit.
2010 proved to be a difficult year for weather and the group did exceptionally well to get themselves in position for their summit bid, they had to battle against high winds (50+mph) on the North Ridge to 7800m to ready for the short weather window. So congratulations also to the rest of the team who reached heights varying from 8300m to 8800m before turning around, all made sensible and safe decisions however disappointing to avoid cold injuries, I think this reflects the hardships endured lower down.
Some thought has been made about a few members making a second attempt, however the weather windows are very tight and the season is coming to a close. We must also access the logistics and energy levels to support a safe ascent/descent
Chessell Adventures
Duncan Chessell, Katie Sarah, Rob North, Richard Moriarty (UK), James Nettleton, Richard Agnew, Zac Zaharias and Chris Warner all made it to the summit. Rob Jackson was not successful this time.
All of the team was on their way down (and had reached camps 2 & 3) and doing well.
Today (26th) its reported that all of the team members are safe at ABC.
25th May
Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart
It's been a difficult few days waiting on news of Geordie's climb, and we knew yesterday that he had been doing well and had reached about 8,700m of 8,848m. The break in communication was down to an illness to another team member and difficult weather conditions.
We have just learned however that Geordie had to turn around at only 150m or so from the summit. The turnaround time was 11am local, after which Geordie had been climbing non-stop for 12 hours, and we can be glad that he had the strength of mind to do so.
To reach such a height deserves great admiration and we can all be proud of his achievements. There are some discussions currently as to whether some may attempt another summit but we cannot be sure this will happen.
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Having arrived at Camp 2 yesterday the whole team will be descending to Base Camp today, Tuesday 25th.
Jagged Globe
The Jagged Globe team all got safely down at Camp 2 yesterday. After they returned from the summit the clouds gathered and warm moist air from the monsoons down in the valley caused a good amount of snow to fall late in the afternoon and all night. Most of the morning also saw falling snow and white out conditions. This made the decent from Camp 4, over the Geneva Spur and along the Lhotse Face very slow and hazardous.
They should arrive back into Base Camp sometime today, Tuesday 25th.
Peak Freaks
Members at Camp 2 are instructed by Tim to leave Camp 2 "very" early tomorrow morning to base camp, well before sunrise. The ice fall is proving to be very dangerous with warming spring temperatures.
Nasuh, Yilmaz and Ade will depart base camp tomorrow and head to Lukla over the next couple of days. The Camp 2 members will rest at base camp tomorrow then they will also start making tracks Lukla bound.
Camp 2:
Greg Jack
Fergus White
Angel Armesto
Khalid Sulaiman
Base Camp:
Nasuh
Yilmaz
Ade
24th May:
Adventure Peaks - Stephen Green
Stephen reached 8650m in the early hours of this morning (when most of us were still in bed), after setting off from Camp 3 at 10.30pm (Everest time). Conditions were good with some of the team sending back pictures of blue skies over the mountain. After a gruelling 10 hour climb, Stephen reached 8650m (less than 200m from the summit), but unfortunately a mistake meant that he was given an empty O2 canister when swapping, forcing him to turn around and return to Camp 3. Stephen is currently recuperating at this height and waits to see if it will be possible to make a second attempt at the summit. The majority of Stephen's team have either already given up or are turning around and returned to lower base camps.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
News came in last night from Stu that everyone, except Steve Green had descended to At least 7800m including Keith our mystery guest who previously had managed to keep his exact location 'secret' from the office. We have not yet had an update this morning however we can assume they are making their way down to ABC to join Josh, Andrew and Max.
Jagged Globe
Three of the four members of the Jagged Globe team summited early this morning. They left Camp 4 at around 8pm in a summit push that involved a large amount of members from various expeditions. The going was slow and there were bottle necks at certain locations.
Tim was the first to reach the summit at 6.30am, followed by the teams guide Robert at 6.45 and then Mike at 8.30am. Jeremy turned back at 8,400mtr at a spot known as the 'Balcony' due to illness but is fine now. He has since returned to Camp 3 while the others are now at Camp 4, where they are all resting before their decent tomorrow morning to Camp 2.
They should all be back in Base Camp by lunchtime on the 25th.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesby
Josh got to 8700m, feeling strong and confident he would make the top. At this point his breathing apparatus was damaged and could not give him enough oxygen, it then froze meaning he had no access to oxygen. He therefore had to rapidly descent to 8200m without oxygen and was passing dead bodies on the way down, with real concern that he wasn't going to make it.
Josh wanted to head straight back up from 8200m and attempt the summit again but the resources were not available to do so. He has therefore descended back down to ABC. Josh is currently in the process of deciding whether to make another attempt.
Keith is safely back at camp at 7800m. It is believed he didn't summit either - still awaiting more details on this.
Seven Summits Club
First climbers of the 7 Summits Club expedition reached the top of Everest at about 6:00 a.m. As a result, today following climbers were on the summit: Noel Hanna (guide, Ireland), Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde (USA), Mikhail Turovsky (Russia, Pyatigorsk), Andrey Filkov (Russia, Moscow), Sirdar of the expedition Mingma Gelu and four other Sherpa’s. Total - 10 people!
Unfortunately, Vadim Nadvodnyuk was forced to turn before reaching the summit because of problems with eyes. Currently, he and all the summiteers have descended, they are in safe places. Some reached the camp ABC, some stay at the North Col.
23 rd May: Afternoon Updates
Himalayan Ecstasy - Ed Laughton
Just an update to let you know that just before half 8 local Tibetan time this morning, Ed summited Everest from the north side.
Chessell Adventures
The team has arrived safely at Camp 2.
The whole team has arrived into Camp 2 at 7700m. Chris, Katie, James and Richard were the race horses of the pack but all got in and are now enjoying a brew.
They will head up to Camp 3 tomorrow. The weather is looking good for our summit day on 25th, with lower winds than the last few days.
23rd May:
Jagged Globe
The second Jagged Globe team led by Robert Anderson, with Tim, Jeremy and Mike arrived at Camp 4 on the South Col yesterday (22nd). After a tough day climbing the fixed ropes across the Lhoste Face and over the Genevre Spur they reached the camp around lunch time today.
They arrived to find some tents had been damaged by gale force winds over the last few days, but found some that were undamaged & have been eating, drinking & resting since. At the moment they are waiting for the winds to drop in anticipation for their summit push.
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Some of the team left Base Camp yesterday (22nd) and the rest are leaving today, May 23rd on the trek back to Kathmandu.
Peak Freaks
Irish climber Fergus White -SUMMITS!!...Just called in from the top of the world!!! He and 2 Sherpas are standing on top right now!!!- 07:00hrs (Nepal Time). The others are closing in from behind. Tim instructs him to take his picture and point those crampons down.
Adventure Peaks
23rd May - 11.00 am GM
The following is all unconfirmed but likely to be correct (where names have not been mentioned that is because we haven't got that information). Please note we are dealing with communications in an extreme environment and where only limited information can be sent whilst protecting fingers etc)
Report by Heather at ABC
Josh, Andrew, and Max are on their way down to ABC now. We're expecting Max around 6pm and are expecting Josh and Andrew (and Keith?) in the next 15 - 20 minutes or so.
Mark, Ian, (?) Pete and Simon are at 7800m with Matt Dickinson. I'm not sure if Matt Snook is there or not... Keith is either at 7800 or on his way down to ABC with Josh.
We've just had some broken communication with Stu - unfortunately the radios between C3 and ABC give broken communication so we could only hear bits and pieces of the conversation. Things are not great in C3 and they have decided to stay the night there - this includes Stu, Nigel, Brendan, Steven +1 -- . There are 8 sherpas at C3 to assist Stu to assist everyone down tomorrow. The weather up there right now looks terrible and Matt Dickinson confirmed that conditions were extremely challenging. Having said that, the forecast for tomorrow looks good so hopefully the gusts will die down over the next few hours.
Sorry that I don't have more accurate news at this stage...
I'll definitely let you know if there are any developments. I'm not sure if Stu's phone works up at C3 but you may want to confirm this info with him - as I said, everything we get down here is really broken up and unclear.
Report by Heather at ABC
(please note camps are put in sheltered areas against the wind, so this unfortunately can hinder communication, Dave Pritt)
23rd May - 08.35am GM No news for definate in the last few hours, we are still waiting for Stu to give an update. It is understood however (not confirmed) that a number of team members turned round between 8600-8700m. All these are without doubt below the first step and probably in the high camp at 8300m. Geordie was the last person who may have made the summit before the turn around time. We await news. Dave Pritt
02.50pm GMT Matt Snook & Peter Sunnucks will be next, they are about 20minutes from Summit (stu is making his way down and will gradually report on each member). Also on summit Mingma Sherpa, Dorjee Khatri, Phurba Ridar Sherpa. Simon Price turned round and we believe he is at high camp (unconfirmed).
23rd May - 02.35am GMT Stu telephoned from the summit, he is on the top with Brendan and their Sherpas! Max is very close behind and should be on top within the next 5minutes. Congratulations!
22nd May: Late Update
Adventure Peaks
22nd May - 11.35pm GMT
Text from Stu at Second Step, he says weather is brilliant!
22nd May - 11.25pm GMT
Text from Stu at Second Step!
(Daves comment - so its about 3hrs to go)
22nd May - 8.30pm GMT
The team is on its way, text from Stu at First Step!
22nd May:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
They are now resting at the South Col, eating and drinking, and sucking on O's until they leave for the summit push at 9 PM. All the group are doing well after a quick climb from Camp 3 to Camp 4 and everyone seems very relaxed before the big push.
Peak Freaks
Camp 4 not looking good, for some teams that is. The passing extreme winds trashed many team’s tents. Lucky Peak Freaks decided to split Team 2 into two approaches making enough room for everyone last night. Some teams are reporting having lost everything. Peak Freaks are lucky, there stoves, fuel, food and oxygen is all there. Tashi Sherpa climbed up to Camp 3 bringing more tents with him as they learned of this. They will go up with Angel, Yilmaz, Nasuh and Greg and Sherpa’s. There Sherpa’s put the tents down and put rocks on them and the gear when they retreated on the 18th from the col, but the wind still managed to get underneath and do some damage.
They are still on track with all that's been happening. They have tightened up the schedule considerably compared to the last push on the 17th. There won't be any laying around enjoying high altitude dreams this time.
TEAM 2: 1st wave: Khalid, Fergus (UK), Ade (UK) and Sherpa’s are at Camp 4- they will stay there till the 2nd wave team catches up to them and lets them sleep till the evening of the 22nd, tomorrow.
2nd wave: Angel, Nasuh, Yilmaz, Greg are going to leave Camp 3 at 03:00hrs pulling into Camp 4 around noon. They will stay there, rest and eat till 18:00hrs which is the time all members will point their point crampons out the door and climb to the top of the world. The night of the 22nd is beautiful in the weather reports with wind picking up late morning early- afternoon of the 23rd. So like last time we want them down and out of exposed part of the climb before that time.
In light of the condition of some of the other team’s tents this might mean that the route will be quieter.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
The team made it to camp at 7800m late last night (21st). The wind has reduced to only a light breeze throughout last night and into this morning, perfect conditions for allowing the team to set off at 9am (local time) this morning for their ascent up to Camp 3 at 8300m, arriving at 3pm (local time).
The team are now resting at Camp 3 (8300m) on oxygen and keeping hydrated. They will be departing Camp 3 at 10.30pm (local time), aiming to reach the 'Second Step' for sunrise at around 4am (local time), then continue on to the summit for around 8am (local time).
Everyone is in good spirits, and eager for their summit attempt.
Chessell Adventures
The persistent high winds have held back many teams, including Chessell Adventures. This has caused over 100 climbers to aim for the 23rd of May and a significant number for the 24th. They have been on hold in ABC until this logjam of people clears and they are hoping for favourable conditions on the 25th of May as there planned summit date. ABC has been trashed by high winds for the last week and finally today there is a respite. There North Col camp at 7050m suffered more damage with a further two brand new tents destroyed by wild wind gusts.
The Chessell Adventures team are departing this morning, the 22nd of May, to North Col (Camp One), then on the 23-24th ascending to Camps two and three (high camp) before there summit bid on the 25th.
Duncan Chessell and one of the Sherpa team will be making a pin point search for the body of Andrew Sandy Irvine who was last seen in 1924 with George Mallory, however due to the extreme altitude will only be able to stay a few short hours in the death zone (above 8000m) searching. This year, due to the extended high winds scouring the face, presents the best chance for decades to carry out the search.
Seven Summits Club
In the morning the "Group One" came to Camp 3, at the altitude of 8300 meters. All members are committed to tomorrow's summit attempt. Group Two climb up from the North Col (7000 m.) to Camp 2 (7700 m).
21st May:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
The summit weather window still looks good for May 22-25 so they have decided to move up to Camp 3 tomorrow in anticipation of a May 23rd summit push. Phil has been told there are many groups going for it on the evening of the 21st hoping to summit on the morning of the 22nd so they have decided to try and avoid the larger crowds by going a day later.
The weather forecast is predicting slightly slower winds at the South Col on the evening of the 22nd so this has made the team decide that the second day of summit pushes suits us better for all the team members.
All the team and Sherpa’s are in good health and very keen to start the final climb to Camp 3, Camp 4 and the summit respectively. They plan to rest at the South Col for the evening after hopefully reaching the summit and then will probably spend an evening at Camp 2 before heading back to Base Camp for the final time.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
An update from Bonita on reaching the summit:
So... wow. At 10.30am on the 17th May 2010 I fell to my knees on top of the world and thanked God for allowing me to get there.
It was an amazing ascent- our team left at 9pm on the 16th and unfortunately were stuck behind a long, slow queue. We made it to the balcony just before sunrise.
As I walked up the south east ridge towards to the south summit I glanced away from my plodding feet to my right and saw the most brilliant sunrise about to burst onto the horizon- the curvature of the earth was clear, and the Himalayas sunk away below us, some of the snow covered peaks just glinting in the dawn light- it was like being in space. I knew from that moment that I would make it.
Me and my Sherpa- Lakpa, waited patiently in line at the first rock step, and when I freaked out a bit at the vertical wall (one side going into Tibet, the other into Nepal), he stuck right behind me and helped me on my way. Soon we were on the south summit...
Here I met Kenton- he had just broken his own record for summiting Everest 8 times- I was so close, he hugged me and told me to be safe. He had broken trail for the rest of us so that our ascent wouldn’t be in knee deep snow, after such an effort he had to get back down- we were not that far behind. This fired me up even more.
At the south summit the Hillary step revealed itself- I had seen it in so many photos- a towering 70ft wall of rock, with footpaths only a few inches wide. I wasn’t filled with fear as I thought I would be- I thought it was the most beautiful thing I had ever seen- it was the gateway to the top of the world. I felt strong, and carried on moving.
Here, a climber passed me- I recognised his green eyes past his oxygen mask immediately- it was Manuel. We had spent a few days together with his wife down in pangboche. He saw me too- he put his arms on my shoulders and with tears in his eyes said to me 'Beautiful Bonita, just beautiful'. He looked like the happiest man on earth. I had a lump in my throat- the emotion was high for everyone as we neared to roof of the world.
I cant remember much of the ascent of the Hillary step- apart from that it was over much quicker than I imagined, and I had not looked down once as the drops were so sheer and so unforgiving!
From here, the weather started to close in- a thick fog was coming over the ridge from the Tibetan side, and as I walked those last couple of hundred metres to the true summit, we were slowly engulfed in white.
In front of me I could see the rest of my team members- Tom and Rick. I saw them embrace on the summit and knew that I would be there in a few minutes, but it felt like forever. Every step was so slow.
Out of the mist came the prayer flags that are attached to the summit- bright colours of red, yellow and blue. I remembered suddenly being in the Tengboche monastery and having a vision of walking towards the prayer flags- they were calling me to me. Before I knew it they were at my feet. I looked up and there I was, surrounded my other climbers on top of the world. We had ran out of earth- no more up. We had done it.
There I saw my team mate, Rick, holding up a t-shirt for his sons that read 'live the dream boys'. I gently sobbed behind my oxygen mask- he and his wife, Ally, live for the three sons- to see him get that treasured t-shirt out on top of the world for them... well, it brings a tear to my eye to write it now.
I sat for a few moments in my own thoughts, I wondered it my friend Geordie, who is climbing on the North side, would be somewhere on the summit- we had bought union flags together in Windsor and I hoped that we would be able to get them out on the summit together. Alas, he is still waiting high up on the hill for his turn- I am sure he will make it. best of luck Geordie.
The winds blew and occasionally I could see the huge mountains below us. It didn’t matter that there was no view- what mattered was the people around me. I hugged my Sherpa an embarrassing amount of times, and recognised other friends there who I had made along the way. We were all lost in our own thoughts- exhausted but elated, trying to let the reality of our situation sink in- we were the highest people on earth!
I finally came round to doing what I had come to do- present the three flags to the ceiling of the earth. These flags had been auctioned on Ebay for Global Angels on behalf of top-up at ATM. I realised that when I wrote them, they all had the word 'love' in them. I motivated myself on the way up by telling myself I was taking a lot of love to the top of the world. This lead me to have that Beatles song in my head 'love, love, love' all the way up- I think I need to finally buy an I-pod!
Suddenly, Lakpa was urging me to go- the weather was closing in- it was time. As I plodded away from the summit I took one last look at it- I knew I would never see it again. I felt so very lucky. So, so lucky.
The descent started smoothly, we got stuck behind some climbers literally sleeping on the path. People felt like they had done the job and now could rest- we were very aware that safety and relaxation only comes when you are back safely at camp 4.
The HIlary step was busy- it was my turn to descend a short rock step.; I did the normal- clipped in, took hold of the rope, and as best as I could- walked down the section of ice and rock. This is where my crampon must have slipped. The rope, which was anchored behind me, pulled me backwards and the next thing I knew I was face in some snow.
At the time I felt fine- I was still on the path! Not in Tibet somewhere without a visa! 20 minutes later though, my neck and shoulders had seized up to such a point that I took one last step and a shooting pain went up my spine- it was so painful I yelped and Lakpa stopped. He saw I was crying- but this time with pain. It was then I realised something was wrong- I must have pulled a muscle in my neck, maybe whiplash. I didn’t know what it was, but moving was excruciating. We were in trouble.
About an hour later and only a couple of hundred feet in distance made, Lakpa and I stood back on the south summit in a total white out. Here I radioed Kenton and told him the situation- I had done something to my neck, I had plenty of oxygen but was going far too slow. I didn’t think I could make it without extra help.
Kenton got into action straight away. Thankfully he was back at C4 with the Sherpa’s and organised a 'rescue' alongside Henry and Kami at base camp. As the sun set the first Sherpa came to greet us with more oxygen.
Finally, about an hour below the balcony, another group of Sherpa’s arrived, from here on I don’t remember much- apart from the pain of being dragged across ice and rock as the attempted to get me back to camp 4 as quickly as possible. My neck was blinding with pain, but I remember having conversations with the sherps and thinking I felt OK bar the neck- I knew if I just let them do the job we would all be home safe.
Before I knew it Kenton's headlight was glaring into my face, he had marched up the face again to ensure I was doing OK, and had bought others with him- including doctor from another team, just in case. After that I remember being at camp pretty quickly- hot tea being poured down my throat and down jackets and sleeping bags shoved onto me. Kenton and the team warmed me up- they were dreading to see my feet, thinking I might have frost damage. Thankfully all digits were in order, and I was passed out asleep from a 28 hour ascent of Everest as they sorted me into my spot in the tent.
After that- all is blank. Sleep overwhelmed me like nothing before. I was safe, we were all safe. The warmth of the tent was intoxicating. I must have snored so loudly. I owe Kenton, the Sherpa’s and the rest of the team my life.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Dressed head-to-toe in their wind-proofs and big-boots, the team headed up the North Col yesterday under blue skies and a hefty-breeze, leaving ABC between 9 - 10am. Everyone was in good spirits and eager to take the first 'official' steps on their individual bids for the summit. The 'breeze' picked up in the early afternoon which resulted in some challenging climbing conditions navigating the steep and icy face of the North Col - gusts up to 50 - 60mph, very cold temperatures, reduced visibility and a lot of blowing snow. The team successfully arrived at the top of the North Col at around 14:00h only to find a number of tents obliterated due to strong gusts of wind. Thanks to the efforts of the Sherpa’s and cooperation by other teams, these were quickly repaired and replaced. Brendan radioed into ABC to say that upon entering the tent he was immediately pinned to the ground by the wind with the tent wrapping around him like cling-film..! Everyone was eager to collect ice/snow for a brew and some delicious 'boil in a bag' feasts and dive into the comfort of their sleeping bags to escape the extremely harsh winds which seemed to pick up and continue well into the evening.
This morning, initial reports from the North Col suggest that morale is high, everyone slept as well as they possibly could under the conditions and are all currently making their way up to 7500m where some of the team will start to breathe the oxygen rich air provided by the O2 cylinders and then continue their way up to the camp at 7800m. Winds are still quite strong however are expected to subside this afternoon with clear skies and ideal conditions expected for tomorrow's move up to 82000m. The team is moving well and we can see their little silhouettes against the clear-blue sky from our vantage point here at ABC.
Seven Summits Club
Today, 21st May, as previously predicted, the wind has decreased. It allowed the first group to climb to Camp 2 at an altitude of 7700 meters. The second group climbed up to North Col (7000 m). Sherpa’s continued carry goods to upper camps. So, the expedition is going up with a lag of one day. And now dates of summit assault are defined, respectively, for 23 and 24 May.
20th May:
Jagged Globe - Tore Sunde-Rasmussen (assistant leader)
Tore has sent this:
"The A-team made it. We summited the worlds highest mountain on the Norwegian National Day the 17th May together with our Sherpas.
Tore Sunde-Rasmussen 10.00
Angus Ruddle 10.40
Ruairidh Finlayson 10.50
Fionnlagh Finlayson 11.20
Tore Summited Everest for his 2nd time together with his sherpa and friend Mingma, who reached the summit for his 15th time!
The team were back in C4 the same evening. The following day we made it back to C2 in good weather, the day after, the 19th of May, we safely slogged back to BC.
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton sends this update:
The team got to the top on the morning of May 17th, we all summated at different times. Kenton was the first to the top after breaking trail in deep snow from the balcony with Dorje. He was followed by Tom Claytor, then Rick Thurma and finally Bonita Norris at approx 10.30am.
It was a great day for summits with great views and little wind, a perfect summit day!!
The only hiccup of the day came when Bonita slipped on the way down and hurt her back and neck. This slowed her descent up and in the end I (Kenton) and a Sherpa team had to lower her down the final slopes from the Balcony to the South Col. The team finally all got back to the South Col camp at 2am after a pretty epic but ultimate safe descent from the top of the world.
We are all now at Base Camp with part of the team flying back to Kathmandu tomorrow via Chopper while the other half will help break down Base Camp and probably depart in a few days.
Peak Freaks
Today, Thursday 20th, Team 2 (Angel Anrmesto- Argentina, Ade Petitt- UK, Martin McHugh- UK, TA Loeffler – Canada, Yilmaz Sevgul- Turkey, Nasuh Mahruki- Turkey)
will make the push to Camp 3. TA and friends, Martin, Hugo, Carina and Pete will be moving swiftly to Lukla to try and get out before the monsoon starts to hamper flights in and out of there, which happens every spring, and more so if expeditions are running late.
Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart
Geordie reports to say that he has made it to ABC ok. The plan was to spend two rest days here but that has now changed. There is a storm brewing and due to hit Mount Everest on the 24th May, his intended summit day, so now the plan is to head up to the North Col camp today (Thursday 20th) with the aim to summit on the 23rd May.
19th May:
Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart
Geordie reports to say he left Base Camp yesterday for ABC for their summit push. Depending on the weather they will spend one or two nights at ABC then consecutive days at North Col, 7800m, 8300m then on to the summit. Having spent 14 days in Base Camp waiting for the right weather window Geordie, like many others are looking forward in going up.
Adventure Peaks -Peter Sunnucks and Mathew Snook
Peter and Mathew say that finally, it looks as thought our weather window has arrived!! Yesterday, Tuesday 18th May, they departed for advanced base camp, to start the final big push to stand on top of the world....
As things stand, they think they may have spied a window for the 23rd-24th May, so hopefully if the weather forecasts hold to their word, and things go to plan, they will be standing on the summit.
During the last week or so it has been massively important for them both to remain focused on the summit, without falling into the trap of settling for a weather window that isn't right in order to 'smash and grab' the summit. It's a trap easy to fall into considering there is not a great deal to do to occupy your time at Base Camp, and is known as 'Summit Fever', or a 'Summit or die' attitude.
18th May:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
The complete team is now at Camp 2 after a very quick climb to Camp 1 and then onto Camp 2. The fastest of the team was Anne-Mari who improved on her last time with a 4.5 hour climb from Base Camp to Camp 2. All the other members also improved on their previous times, and the long rest duration at Base Camp with regular daily hikes has seemed to payed off.
They will continue to check the daily weather forecast from there meteorological service and compare with their friends European service to decide on what day will be best for the summit attempt. The predictions are looking good for a May 22-24 window but they need to asses the wind speeds for our evening at the South Col.
Another factor to take into consideration is the two large guided expeditions left on the mountain and their summit plans. They have been told the good days to avoid the crowds so they will decide and try to avoid any possible bottlenecks that were supposedly reported from above the South Summit on May 17th. They are hoping that there will be two ropes on the Hillary Step, for ascent and descent, and this hopefully will avoid the problems that Phil has experienced there in the past.
Regardless of the weather forecasts, good or bad, they plan to rest tomorrow at Camp 2, before moving any higher on the hill for the push.
Jagged Globe
The summit team were up early and left the South Col this morning, heading back down the Geneva Spur, across the Yellow Band and then long rappels down the Lhotse Face. They will be staying in Camp 2 tonight, then heading down to Base Camp early tomorrow morning so as to get through the Khumbu Icefall before the sun hits it.
In Base Camp, Bunter, Mike, Tim and I are preparing to head back up to Camp 2 tomorrow for our own summit bid, so having a last and easy pack, as most things are already up the hill. There will be high winds for a few days, but these are forecast to drop off after 21 May, so we will be looking for a good window after that time.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey
Last night the only female member Heather declared that she would temporarily join another group to have more time to head to ABC. As such, with no other influence of oestrogen, it was declared that 16th May would be officially known as 'Man Day'!
On more serious matters, Stu has now confirmed that they will leave Base Camp on the 18th all be it that the winds and precipitation higher up remain tentative.
Chessell Adventures
The summit team is back at Base Camp, and poised, ready to go for the summit. However, of course, although they are now ready, the mountain is not necessarily so, so the waiting game begins.
Seven Summits Club
On the eve Sherpas and Tibetan climbers from a Chinese expedition completed the processing route of ascent of Everest from the north. As primary information, six people reached the summit. The expedition 7 Summits Club, analyzing weather and other factors, on general meeting, adopted a plan for decisive operations. The team was divided into two groups.
Each of them will be accompany by Sherpas climbers.
First group: guide Noel Hanna (IRELAND), Andrey Filkov, Vadim Nadvodnyuk, Mikhail Turovsky, Steve Berry (UK), James Wilde. Exit at the North Col - 19 May. 20.05 - camp 7700 m, 21.05 - camp 8300 m, 22.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.
Second group: Guide Sergey Larin, three Poles (Krzysztof Ginalski, Malgorzata Piezh-Penkala, Daniel Mizera), Elena Gorelik, Zdravko Dejanovic.
Exit at the North Col - May 20. 21.05 - camp 7700 m, 22.05 - camp 8300 m, 23.05 - summit and descend to camp ABC.
Alexander Abramov and Nicholay Cherny on the situation will be in camps 7700 or 8300, run by the ascent and descent. We get confused weather forecasts from different operators. But for all the senses, the monsoon will come soon.
Himalayan Ecstasy - Ed Laughton
Ed reports that yesterday he left Base Camp after a breakfast of chapattis and peanut butter and at first it was a great hike in sunny weather up the side of the Rongbuk Glacier before turning to take the East Rongbuk. However once past Intermediate Camp at 5800m where he stopped for lunch, the weather closed in and the altitude starting to really kick us despite our previous acclimatisation. About an hour before ABC a freezing wind picked up and it started to snow - all in all it was a really testing day. At ABC Ed was telling John how disappointed he was to have found the trek such tough going. However voice of reason that he is, he made the quite valid point that climbing vertically 1.2 kilometers over 12 miles up to an altitude of 6400m was never going to be easy - good point that man, well made. Ed received a hearty welcome from Natan Ji and Lhakpa, though I suspect it was the new food supplies they were most pleased to see arrive. They'd completely run out that morning and had to make do with frozen potatoes for breakfast and biscuits for lunch.
Today Ed is recovering and it is definitely a welcome rest day. It was bitterly cold in the tent last night but today Ed’s watch thermometer tells him it's 45C in there. No wonder there bodies can't decide whether they are too hot or too cold. After being so pleased to get back to Base Camp originally it's definitely great to be back here now that the summit attempt is nearing. Plus the sun is shining and if there was any wildlife up here I'm sure it would be birds-a-signing. Best of all there's virtually no wind which is a welcome relief. This morning Ed has been going through his gear for the summit bid already, two days early.
17th May: Second Update
Jagged Globe - CLIMBERS BACK AT THE SOUTH COL
1352 GMT Robert Anderson reports that all team members and Sherpas are down and resting at the South Col. They plan to descend to Camp 2 tomorrow, then onwards to base camp on Wednesday 19 May. The rest of the team are tentatively planning to leave Base Camp around 19 May for a 22 May summit or so...."
17th May:
Jagged Globe - SUMMIT
At 9:30 last evening, the winds dropped at the South Col, and Tore, Angus, Foo and Ruairidh left with their Sherpas, Mingma Tseri, Pema Tsiring, Dawa Tashi and Sherap.
This morning at just before 6am they called and were just below the South Summit (8750 meters). They had light wind and the sun had just come up after a long, cold night of climbing.
It is perfectly clear today and they will have had incredible sunrise views over Makalu and Kangchenjunga to the East and Cho Oyu and Shishipangma to the West.
The summit ridge on Everest is a fitting and formidable climb to the top of the world, with at times, the left foot hanging over Nepal and the immense expanse of Everest's South West Face, and the right foot leaning out over Tibet, dropping nearly 4 vertical kilometers down the Kangshung Face.
From the South Summit they will have dipped down onto the rocky ridge leading over to the Hillary Step, clambered across this and then bridged up between the ice and the rock, before stepping left and reaching the top of the Hillary Step. From there a long snow slope curves gently up to the summit.
At 10:10 am Mingma Tsering called and he and Tore were on the summit, followed by Angus and Dawa Tashi at 10:45 am, then Ruairidh and Pema Tsering just after 11, and Foo and Sherap at 11:30.
They have said winds are still moderate with a little snow and they are all headed back down the mountain to the South Col.
The remaining members of the team are looking at the next weather window and all feeling well and healthy.
Dream Guides – SUMMIT
All members of the Dream Guides team have now summited and are making their way back to Camp 4.
Kenton and the team left Camp 4 in relatively good weather last night. Kenton went ahead with his sherpa to break trail for the team (and other teams attempting a summit at the same time) and he has now successfully summited for the 8th time. As there are other teams hoping to reach the summit alongside Dream Guides, the rest of the team have got 'stuck in traffic' and so progress to the summit is taking longer.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris – SUMMIT
On the morning of Monday 17th May 2010, along with the fantastic members of the Dream Guides team, I managed to summit Mt. Everest. In doing so, I am proud to be the new holder of a British record: Youngest British Female.
16th May: Evening Update
Jagged Globe
On Friday the team set off from Everest Base Camp at 3:30 am for Camp 2, which they reached in time for a late lunch.
The following day (Saturday) they took a rest.
With half the group feeling strong and confident, the next morning Tore, Angus, Foo and Ruery set off at 7am for Camp 3, settling in there at 7,100 meters for lunch. The balance; Robert Anderson, Bunter, Mike and Tim, having suffered with a bit of stomach complaints and liking the look of a longer second good weather window forecast for 23 May and beyond, set off down through the Cwm for a quick return to Base Camp, the sanctuary of Gavin's fine food and a few further days of rest.
Jack, having taken an extended break down the valley at Pheriche, would also be coming back up to join them.
Today (Sunday 16 May), Tore, Angus, Foo and Reury set off from Camp 3 at 5:30 am and are now making there way up and across the Lhotse Face, over the Yellow Band, up the Geneva Spur and around the corner into Camp.
At Base Camp, Jagged Globe are in contact with the team by radio as they head up for the South Col and should weather allow, keep in touch with them throughout the evening as they head for the top.
16th May:
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
All the team are now at Camp 4. They are resting on oxygen and attempting to get as much food and fluid down us as the forecast is showing that the winds will be returning shortly, so, if they are going to go for it, it's tonight or not again for another week. It's currently snowing which doesn't make for great underfoot conditions on the ascent but they have a really strong Sherpa team with them who will be helping Kenton break trail.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin has made the decision to retreat back to Base Camp, he was climbing up the Lohtse Face and had lost all feeling in his hands due to the cold, the Sherpas tried to warm his hands to no avail, continuing would have meant frostbite so has come back to Base Camp, when he spoke on the phone earlier today he still had no feeling in his hands and was going to see the medics, he said he is going to rest up for a few days, so this summit push is now over sadly for Martin.
Peak Freaks
Angel, Fergus (UK), Greg, Ade (UK), Bob, Khalid, Nasuh and Yilmaz were at the yellow band when Angel called in to report that the weather is amazing, no wind whatsoever and everyone is moving up to the Col in good speed.
Tim said Hugo hadn't called in from the South Col yet but is confident that the three of them, Hugo, Carina and Pete were probably busy boiling up water and likely feeling pretty good as they would have been sucking on oxygen all night.
So tonight sometime between 21:00hrs and 23:00hrs our team which will now be one, will be making their summit push and hopefully arrive around 06:00hrs if all goes well.
Team 1 is all now Camp 3 minus one since the last report. Martin (UK) turned back on the Lhotse face due to cold hands (smart decision). Hugo, Carina and Pete are at the South Col and have decided to stay there and wait for the others and climb together tomorrow tightening up the team and our resources and do the push all together with all the members and Sherpas since there are no line-ups.
15th May:
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton’s team have decided to go for the small window of opportunity that appeared on the weather forecasts a couple of days ago, a 36 hour window to be precise.
The team climbed really well yesterday through the ice fall, past Camp 1 and up to Camp 2, where they have rested for a day. Today (Saturday) they will undertake the daunting task of scaling the 1200 metre Lhotse Face to reach Camp 3. After a rest at Camp 3, Kenton’s intention is then to take the team up to Camp 4 and into the Death Zone on Sunday. Then, at about 2100, they will leave for the summit in the dark. Climbing to the summit should take approximately 8-12 hours. Kenton will of course be checking real time information on the way up such as the forecasts, the actual weather conditions, the underfoot conditions and, importantly, the fitness of the team. If all of these components come together in our favour, we may just have some good news on the 17th.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita reports to say that she is feeling ready, fit and positive about the final push. She managed the climb from Base Camp to Camp 2 in a very respectable time of 6.5 hours, which she is quite chuffed about! Fingers crossed for Monday!!!'
Peak Freaks
Tim confirms that team 2 are currently moving to Camp 3. Team one is taking their time waiting for their arrival as there isn't any rush to move to the South Col till later. Team 2 will sleep here tonight while Team 1 saunters up the South Col later on to try and get some sleep from now until about 11:00pm this evening. No rush to go earlier as the route is all theirs and possibly fellow Canadian climbers Jaime Clarke and his cameraman Scott Simper may be with them.
Next move will happen the same way for Team 2 starting tomorrow. They should be on top on the early morning of May 17. Both teams have plenty of time to get back down, even an extra day if needed.
13th May:
Peak Freaks
Now that the team have all successfully completed their acclimatization rotation and health issues for some have been resolved, they have been able to lay down the plan for there Mount Everest 2010 summit bid.
They will run with two summit push teams.
Team 1: Fergus White - Ireland, Robert Shepherd- Scotland/Australia, Dr. Greg Jack- USA/Australia, Hugo Searle- Guide –USA, Khalid AlSiyabi- Oman, Peter Solie- USA, Carina Raiha – Finland
Team 2: Angel Anrmesto- Argentina, Ade Petitt- UK, Martin McHugh- UK, TA Loeffler – Canada, Yilmaz Sevgul- Turkey, Nasuh Mahruki- Turkey
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin has reported that they are heading off to Camp 1 today in an attempt for a summit bid, they are looking to summit on the 17th of May, the plan is:
13th May Camp 1
14th of May Camp 2
15th May Camp 3
16th may Camp 4
the summit bid will take place from Camp 4 were they rest up on oxygen for a few hours they will leave Camp 4 round about midnight Nepalese time 16th May to summit at approx 6-7am 17th May
Martin says he is feeling good and looking forward in getting started.
12th May:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Phil says that they have been studying the weather reports very closely the past few days as they received some data revealing a possible small weather window on the 16th and 17th. As the two dates approached, the window seemed to close and Phil is not satisfied with the safety margin it offered them. The wind speeds predicted by the two premier weather forecast services used on Everest, both the US forecast and the Swiss forecast, are still predicting very dangerous high winds for another week.
The team has collectively decided to not chance the small window and prefers to stay put taking regular day treks in anticipation of the jet stream leaving the proximity of the mountain after the 20th.
Anne-Mari, Pasang Wongchu and Dorjee Sherpa along with Pasang Disco Sherpa are presently all at Camp 2. Dorjee wanted to break down the tents at the camp to save them from destruction and Anne-Mari wanted to keep a close eye on her Finnish rival at camp two, who is also aiming to be the first Finnish female to summit Everest.
If the forecasts hold true and the wind continues most of the climbers positioned at Camp 2 would be wise to descend to Base Camp otherwise climb in some windy conditions.
Peak Freaks
Peak Freaks reports that the winds are intense right now even at Base Camp. They have Sherpas at Camp 2 manning the tents up there to make sure things don't get torn up or blown away. It's near 100Klm per hour on the summit.
There is the small May 16 and 17 window where the winds die down to a climbable speed but it is too short with extreme winds on either side of it. Tim comments "it's not worth losing fingers and toes over." They will stay put and wait for the next window.
11th May:
Jagged Globe
The need to recover from the 8 days at Camp 2 or above have seen the Jagged Globe team take some welcome down time from the mountain. The usual Base Camp activities have been indulged including, eating, sleeping, washing both people and clothes, eating amazing birthday cakes, DVD watching, scrabble and bouldering. Some people have opted for day trips to Gorak Shep, others have taken mini breaks to Pheriche.
On the mountain the ropes have now been fixed all the way to the summit. The team is therefore studying the weather reports for a suitable period of clement weather for their summit push. The normal change in the weather with the coming onset of the monsoon making this an unpredictable affair!
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton says there appears to be the faintest of hopes that there may be a window in the weather around May 16th, although he’s not pinning much hope on it, its a very small 36hr slot which could easily disappear.
Kenton has decided to take the team back up to Camp 2, then at least they will be in position on the hill if things change and the window widens. If the weather doesn't improve then it will be a great stretch of the legs and help get us all reacclimatized.
So it’s another 4am start tomorrow to trot through the icefall and then on to Camp 2. It will take 6-8hrs for most of the team to get there and Kenton is hoping that the 10 days they have spent down low hasn't affected the team's speed in the icefall.
Dream Guides – Fi Ramsden
Yesterday (10th May) Fi celebrated her birthday with cake and wine. She is now heading up from Pangboche back to Base Camp, and hoping that next time she is back in Pangboche she will have something bigger to celebrate than her increasing age.
Adventure Peaks
The group continues to wait for a good weather forecast, although it appears there will be a small drop in summit winds around the 16-17th May it is likely they will wait for a more positive and defined window that appears to be forming for the period 23-26th.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey
Josh reports that in terms of the summit push, the Sunday Times this week said "it could be today!".... Well it wasn't, it wasn't again and it isn't today either. In fact they really are quite bored now waiting for the jet stream winds to drop and allow them just one chance at the upper slopes.
The initial charts suggested the 18th was a possibility and thus they would have been leaving on the 13th. Sadly this didn't materialise and they find themselves waiting with the rest of the Northern Side for the magic green light. Though it is still too early to say the 22nd-25th is currently favourable for a summit push and they hope to leave on the 18th.
To alleviate the boredom, most of the group congregate around the mess tent for general chit chat or banter. As an aside there is always reading or the endless rehearsal of singing with Josh on his guitar! To retain the acclimatisation and fitness most don their boots on alternate days and head for a decent walk.
Chessell Adventures
The whole team made the climb to the North Col in horrendous conditions - spindrift and gusty winds but they made it. Most reached the Col at around the 6 hour mark, on the new route that avoids the dangerous serac.
Last night everyone had trouble sleeping in the blustery conditions - sudden thumps of 40 knot / 75km/h gusts hit the tents every so often.
This morning (11th May) the views were spectacular though with the strong winds ripping the snow off the route from the North Col up to 7500m, leaving blue ice. And higher up the snowy mountain is being transformed back to its more usual rocky self.
The Everest team is staying one more night as part of the acclimatization program. Today will be a day of high altitude lassitude, dozing until the next gust. They will retreat tomorrow, as far as Base Camp and then perhaps even head a little lower to recover from minor coughs and recharge for a summit push later much later.
10th May:
Jagged Globe
Robert reports on the final part of their acclimatisation at Camp 3, and a snowy descent:
They awoke at 2am. It was snowing, It was blowing. At 7am we were up, strapping on crampons, unsheathing our harnesses. Diving out the door the wind was a blast and the snow came in swirls: above, around, blowing up and engulfing us. If all else failed and a big gust obliterated the slope, we just clipped the rope and went down and it would soon fade.
Rappel after rappel. The only way out was down, as quickly and as safely as possible. Sliding down the ropes on our figure of 8's, slipping in beside the next anchor, stabbing in the crampons, clipping in, swapping ropes, then down and down again. All in gloves, wrapped up in swaddling clothing.
Reaching the base of the Lhotse Face, the full blast of the snow falling from above hit us as we slid over the bergschrund: it built up around our boots, then piled in around our knees. Then hit us in the face, blinding us. Only the rope across and then down to the shiny aluminium ladder guided us, before we popped out onto the Khumbu Glacier below.
An hour later we were laughing in Camp II, the snow swirling outside, hot cups of tea and soup inside.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
All the team + 6 Sherpa finally came down to Base Camp on the 8th May. They are now all resting and waiting for the weather window to come in, when that might be is the big question. Apparently the rope fixing team have moved up to ABC and are planning to attempt final summit fix on the 16th.
Adventure Peaks – Peter Sunnucks
Pete reports about the past week.
It was time for Matt to experience the North Col for the first time. Waking up in ABC after a good night sleep they found over 2 foot of snow fall had fallen in the night and this put the departure on hold. With only a day's delay, they proceeded as planned.
The weather on there ascent can only be described as blizzard conditions. This was Pete’s second ascent of the North Col and he felt physically strong, setting a good time to the top despite the conditions. Matt performed exceptionally on the climb, especially for his first attempt.
On reaching the top of the North Col Pete was greeted with the sight of a total white out, all the tents were buried in up to 3 foot of snow. It took a good half hour to just to identify there camping area, let alone dig a suitable tent out! Finally once inside the tent and the blizzard shut out, Pete got the stove on and started to melt some snow and waited for Matt, he finally arrived, exhausted and deathly but elated. It had clearly taken a lot out of him.
The next day was a complete contrast in weather, blazing sunshine. Today was a rest day for recovery from yesterday's ascent,
With two nights sleep under there belt at 7050m, it was time to venture higher up the mountain. The aim of the day was to reach 7500m. The route would be a relentless steep climb up the snow ridge to the rock wall which allows passage to Camp 2 at 7800m. The views whilst walking this route are breath-taking.
Unfortunately for us, the weather decided to turn and blizzard conditions rained supreme again. Matt struggling with acclimatisation managed a pretty pathetic 50m or so from the tent, no one else who was on the North Col ventured further. Pete pushed further, cutting his own tracks in the fresh deep snow, he managed to reach 7500m. The descent back to the tents on the North Col took all of 40 minutes, after gruelling 3 hour climb.
After a third (restless) night at 7050m, the descent of the North Col was an enjoyable experience, especially as the weather had now decided to be kind to us.
They are now back at ABC, making the most of fresh(ish) water, non-boil-in-the-bag food and a well-earned rest before heading down to Base Camp tomorrow where they can really relax, for a week or so anyway.
They will then wait for the right weather window to hopefully take them to the summit and back.
8th May:
Altitude Junkies - Phil Crampton
Phil reports that five of his Sherpas are assisting with the rescue of an injured Sherpa on Pumori. Both his and another groups Sherpas have climbed to Camp 1 with a stretcher where they hope to evacuate the Sherpa, who we are told took a 200-meter fall yesterday. They hope the clear skies hold for a helicopter evacuation later this morning.
As for the Everest team, they are still down at Base Camp waiting for the high winds to abate and allow them to make a serious summit attempt with a safe three to four day weather window.
Phil hopes to have some good news with there summit plans in the next few days when they see the jet stream move away from the mountain and hopefully clear blue skies.
Chessell Adventures
It has been a busy few days for the team. Most of the summit team have now climbed to the North Col (7050m) for a brief visit, hot drink, and then turn back to Advance Base Camp.
Dream Guides - Fi Ramsden
Fi says she is sitting it out in Pangboche watching DVD’s, scoffing her face and waiting for weather window.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita decided at the last minute to pack her bag and head down into the valleys for some proper rest whilst they wait for the weather window. She has gone down to Pangboche.
7th May:
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin and Ade have dropped down the valley to Pherichai where the others are resting. They are looking forward in eating tastier food than what they can get at Base Camp. They will make their way back up the valley on the 8th, Martin and Ade will then go to Camp 1 on the 11th and hopefully reach the summit on the 17th.
6th May:
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton says that the weather window that they were hoping to hit slowly disappeared on them which have been a little frustrating. The last few days at Base Camp have been cold and cloudy.
Kenton has been suffering with his wisdom teeth, which has meant the last couple of days have been pretty miserable.
Bonita has dropped down valley for a little rest and is due back in a couple of days. Rick and Ali have been making themselves busy and even had a little ice climbing school going on in the ice fall a couple of days ago.
Everyone is just waiting for the weather to improve and then hopefully they will have a clear shot to the top.
Dream Guides – Fi Ramsden
Fi has gone down the valley for some much needed rest. She has stopped for the night in Pheriche on the trek down to Pangboche so that she can get some emailing done, and finally post a few snaps from Everest.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey
Josh reports that they have just arrived back into Base Camp and now await five days rest before the all important weather window to hopefully take us to the summit.
Seven Summits Club
On the morning of May 5, as was predicted by forecast, there was heavy snowfall. The four guides, Alexander Abramov, Nikolay Cherny, Sergey Larin and Noel Hanna (Ireland), after consultation, decided to bring the whole team down from ABC to the Base Camp. Moreover, the forecast for today and tomorrow promises more bad weather and the forecast is justified.
There has also been snow falls at Base Camp too. They intend to wait till end of this bad weather. They have decided to organize rest for the team until May 9th, and then plan the assault on Mount Everest.
5th May:
Himalayan Ecstasy - Ed Laughton
The plan had been to go up to the North Col on the 30th April, but last night Ed ate some dodgy chicken. Needless to say a restless night followed and he was relieved to seeing heavy snow in the early morning - they would get a days respite to recover before the climb.
Having had a good breakfast Ed headed up the North Col on the 1st May. He said it was baking hot with the sun reflecting off the ice and snow. It was also slow going with too many people on the ropes in places. He made it up to Camp 1 and collapsed into his tent before starting the laborious process of melting ice to combat the dehydrating climb. A quick soup for tea and he slept really well despite the cold and increasing wind.
On the 2nd May the plan was to push up to Camp 2 but the weather made leaving the tent all but impossible. Ed sat huddled in his lovely warm down sleeping bag listening to the hurricane force blizzard that raged outside, constantly buffeting the tent. The day was spent resting, drinking and eating.
The 3rd May was extremely hot and sunny so it was decided that they head up the hill.
Most people were turning around at 7200m or 7300m because of the high winds and heading back to ABC. The snow ramp before Camp 2 ends at 7500m and Ed wanted to at least make that. Ed described the view as he walked across the North Col as ‘truly awesome’.
As he crossed the Col, the wind went from nothing to mild hurricane in just a few steps and it stayed with them the entire time. It was clear for the first hour or so, but slowly the clouds enveloped them. At 2pm it was decided that they should turn around, they had we'd reached 7450m. Ed was genuinely worried about getting at the very least frost nip in my fingers so he headed back - foolishly Ed had left his better summit gloves in ABC.
The day after, with no food left in camp meant it was time to go down to ABC, most people had abandoned camp the day before in the better weather.
Today, 5th May Ed woke up after a good nights sleep at ABC. Ed spent most of the morning sorting out food for the high camps and testing the oxygen bottles.
Like other teams, they are now waiting for news on the weather, when the window might open for a summit push.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin has reported that all is fine although he is getting bored with the down time at Base Camp and is now looking forward to coming home.
Martin and Ade are heading down the valley for a few days so they can sleep in a proper bed and have some chips. The summit date they are looking to is now the 15-17th of May.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Matt D, Heather, Pete & Matt S have had their first night at the North Col. They have had a lot of snow up there, nearly a meter, which has limited any attempt to move up the ridge. They will have another night at the Col tonight to help with acclimatization. If they cannot make any further progress on the ridge then they will descend back to ABC.
All other team members are now down at Base Camp.
4th May:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Phil mentions that their Sherpas have been doing a fantastic job of getting the respective high camps stocked and ready for our anticipated summit bid hopefully in the coming days.
All team members are well rested and relaxed but are now feeling the urge to get back on the hill.
Jagged Globe
The 1st May saw the climbing team arrived safe and well at Camp 3. They left Camp 2 just before 7am and the first team members had ascended the Lohste Face and were arriving at the next camp within 4.5 hours.
Yesterday, 3rd May the team had all arrived back in Everest Base Camp.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin reports that he is now at Base Camp and that he is fine except for a blister, he has been up to Camp 3. He, like many others are now waiting around for the right weather window to have a go at the summit.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Stu has been in contact to say his group had a successful but wild and cold period of acclimatization on and above the North Col! He described their walk up the North Ridge to 7300m as the worst weather (cold and strong winds) he had ever experienced on Everest during his three previous expeditions.
The group will now drop down to Base Camp for a well deserved rest before making their attempt on the summit.
Chessell Adventures
The team are now settled at Advance Base Camp (ABC) 6400m. They have had there puja ceremony. This is a very important part of any approach to a mountain in the Himalayas.
The next few days will be either rest days, a walk for the summit team, and then a trip up to tag 7000m on the North Col (Camp 1), or, in a few days, a big Lhakpa Ri summit day for the 7000m climbing team! Very important for the intervening days to rest, hydrate, and build up some energy reserves before the big day.
2nd May:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Phil reports in to say they are at Base Camp waiting for the summit window weather to appear. They are keeping themselves occupied by taking regular hikes to Pumori Base Camp which keeps them feeling fit for the summit attempt which they hope to make soon.
Peak Freaks
Currently at Base Camp today is Pete, Ade (UK), Martin (UK), Lucille, Angel and Bob. Everyone else is down the valley.
Dr. Amit Kotecha (UK) has spent the last couple of days since his return from Camp 2 working out probably one of the hardest decisions he has had to make in his life. He's a father of three young children and is new to climbing and has pushed the boundaries of his risk tolerance. He is not happy with the condition of the icefall and just doesn’t want to take a risk, so he has called it a day.
The weather looks good for summits around the proposed route fixing date to the summit of May 6 and 7.
1st May:
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton reports that the team are once again at Base Camp.
Over the past week, the team left early on Sunday morning start, 4.30am. It was an uneventful trip through the icefall and they all made it to Camp 1 where they spent the night.
08.30am on Monday they left for Camp 2. They all made it to Camp 2 in under 3.5hrs despite the heat of the sun, which was a great effort by all.
Tuesday was a day of active rest; Kenton took the team out of camp and up to the bottom of the Lhotse face. The hike to the bottom took a couple of hours and the hike back to camp took a just over 40mins.
Wednesday morning at 7am they headed out for Camp 3. They all made good progress climbing the ropes, and it only took Rick a little over 2.5hrs to reach Camp 3. Once we were there it was a quick break and then back down the ropes to Camp 2.
Thursday saw a much needed return to Base Camp. All the team where back in Base Camp in under 4hrs, an amazingly quick time.
Yesterday (Friday) was spent washing clothes and themselves after the 5 days up the mountain. Their Sherpa team were preparing the carries of equipment to Camp 4 on the South Col.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita gives her update on the past week.
The team have been up on the hill for the past 5 days and have now finished our acclimatisation, and await a weather window for the summit.
Bonita left for her rotation on the hill started as usual, she left Base Camp in the dead of night, getting to crampon point at the bottom of the ice fall for around 5am.
As Bonita was climbing down the last ladder in the ice fall she came to the aid of another woman climber who had got herself tangled up and was getting distressed about it all. Then this was followed by a huge boom, a massive block of ice under our little ledge collapsed and fell into the depths of the glacier. Luckily the ledge Bonita was on held and she continued up to Camp 1.
She slept most of the time at Camp 1, before leaving the next morning for Camp 2. She reached the edge of Camp 2 in just over 2 hours and then she got lost. Finally another 30 minutes later she entered the mess tent.
The next day was an ‘active rest day’. The aim was to tag the bottom of the great Lhotse face, gaining about 250m altitude.
The following morning Bonita was off by 7am to Camp 3. She was blessed with awesome weather. Bonita arrived in to Camp 3 some 5hrs and 30mins later. The descent back down to Camp 2 was fast, she went with Kenton.
The descent back to Base Camp yesterday was just as fast- 3hrs 40mins from Camp 2.
Today Bonita is slowly getting her kit together for the summit push. Undressing in the shower tent she realised how her body has changed, she says “my thighs have huge muscles- like a rugby player, my hands are tanned dark but my arms are ghostly white, I have lost a bit of weight, but definitely have enough fat for the summit”.
Peak Freaks
Everyone from the Peak Freaks team is off the mountain now and making plans to spread out over the next few days. Some are going for a walk down to Pheriche to oxygenate, while others are taking this time to rest and save burning calories.
30 th April:
Chessell Adventures
A light dusting of snow overnight at Everest Base Camp left the team with a beautiful view this morning of Mt Everest.
The Summit team are trekking to ABC today. All members are in good spirits and while there are a few headaches overall they are looking pretty strong.
The weather for the next few days is mixed, some afternoon snow, early sunshine but pretty cold at night.
The next main event is a Budhist Puja ceremony at ABC on the 4th of May, after which they will start putting crampons on and clenching ice axes in hand and staggering upwards in the thin air.
Jagged Globe
The team are currently at Camp 2. It snowed on the Lohste Face late yesterday and so not to take any more risks with avalanches than is necessary, the team has taken today a rest day. They will head up the Lohste Face to Camp 3 tomorrow morning leaving at 6.30am. The Sherpas will also head up with the team to Camp 3, with some of them doing an advance carry up to Camp 4 on the South Col.
All the team are doing fine, they are well acclimatised and healthy. They intend on staying at Camp 3 overnight before making their way back to Camp 2 and then back to Base Camp.
29 th April:
Peak Freaks
Almost everyone from Camp 2 made it up and back from Camp 3 yesterday. Because Carina just arrived yesterday she needed one more day of rest before moving up. Hugo will be staying up to support her along with Khalid and Fergus (UK). Though Fergus (UK) and Khalid have been to Camp 3 they wanted more time at altitude to prepare for the big day. Amit (UK) was not doing so well so he went down to Base Camp with his personal Sherpa. Everyone else will be retreating to Base Camp today.
28th April:
Jagged Globe
The team, along with their Sherpas, left Base Camp Monday morning at 3.30am, bound for Camp 1. They made good time through the icefall, now that they are familiar with it, and arrived at Camp 1 in time for breakfast. They spent a little under twenty four hours there before moving up to Camp 2, for another twenty four hour period of acclimatisation and rest.
This morning (Wednesday 28 April) they set off for a short familiarity climb up the Lohste Face and returned to Camp 2 just in time for lunch. Everyone is doing fine and feeling well acclimatised, with a couple more days scheduled for acclimatising at that altitude.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin reports that he is now at Camp 2 and heading up to Camp 3 today were he will stay for a lunch and allow his body to just to the new allitude then head back down to Camp 2 to sleep, then return to Base Camp for a final pre-summit rest.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey
The current plan, weather and performance depending is to go back to ABC on Thursday, rest on Friday, climb the North Col again Saturday, stay there Saturday night, ascend to 7500m on Sunday, back to North Col for Sunday night and then descend from Monday onwards. We'll then rest again once back at BC for five days before attempting the summit bid.
Adventure Peaks – Peter Sunnucks
Peter gives an update on the past week.
Since being established at Base Camp, Peter has visited the memorials of Mallory and Irvine, as well as the other memorials dedicated to climbers who have not returned from the mountain.
On Sunday 18th April they finally left Base Camp for ABC. The move was the biggest test to date, but thankfully the 15mile trek from BC to ABC was broken up with an Intermediate camp at 5700m.
The two days treking up to ABC provided them with there first close-up view of the summit, Second Step and the North Col. Peter said that although ABC was made to be as comfortable as possible his first two days at there can only be described as the worst Jagermeister-hangover he has ever experienced. Thankfully, after a walk up to the North Col head-wall, 6600m, he was back to his normal self.
On the 22nd April, he moved to the North Col head-wall to attempt to ascend the biggest hurdle he has had to come across so far. It involved 4 hours of solid climbing, and eventually reaching the top he set a new personal altitude record of 7050m.
Following the successful ascent of the North Col, he headed back to the relative comfort of ABC, before heading back down to Base Camp the following morning.
Chessell Adventures
Everyone has enjoyed their time in Base Camp. After a couple of rest days, a gentle walk with no height gain was the order of the day. Followed the next day by a mild gain of a couple of hundred metres up a nearby valley.
The plan now will be to head straight up the glacier - have two nights in Interim Camp, one night at Changtse Base Camp (~6100m) and then arrive in Advance Base Camp (ABC) on the fourth day.
27th April:
Peak Freaks
The majority of the team are now gathered at Camp 2. Everyone who is there will move up to Camp 3 for lunch, hang out, let their bodies adjust to the new altitude and then return to Camp 2 to sleep again. The next day they will retreat down to Base Camp for their final rest pre-summit.
26th April:
Altitude Junkies - Phil Crampton
Phil reports in to say that all the team are now all back at Base Camp after there second rotation on the mountain, tagging Camp 3 in the process.
On the 22nd they all climbed directly to Camp 2 from Base Camp with the exception of Jussi (Finland) who followed a day later with Lhapka Sherpa and Sirdar, Dorjee Sherpa. After spending a rest day at the 6,400 meter elevation the following day we ate and drank well.
A very cold 7 am start saw them make great time climbing up to Camp 3. The wind was blowing hard so they did not spend too much time there, just leaving some supplies.
Jussi, Lhapka, Dorjee and Pasang Nima Sherpa all climbed up to Camp 3 the following day while the other team members waited and rested at Camp 2. They experienced windier conditions than the previous day.
After four nights spent at Camp 2 they all headed down to the warmth and thick air of Base Camp today.
Phil says the plan is now for the team members to both rest and take regular day hikes while we wait for the South Col to be stocked, the summit ropes to be placed and the weather window to appear. We have made two climbs through the icefall already and the plan is to make one more up and one more down with the summit in our pockets.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Stu called the Adventure Peaks office to say that all his team members are safe and ok in ABC at the time it happened. There was a serac collapse (like an avalanche) on the North col this morning which apparently killed two people (Nationallity unconfirmed).
Adventure Peaks – Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesby
The entire Everest group is now back to Base Camp. There plan is as follows, they will spend 5 days at Base Camp to rest up, followed by a trip to ABC, North Col, ABC and back again before another 5 days before we start the summit push.
Adventure Peaks – Stephen Green
Stephen sent out a message to let everyone know that he is safe, and wasn’t caught up in the Avalanche on the North Col that happened this morning. He was back in Base Camp with the rest of our team having previously climbed the North Col less than 36 hours ago.
Chessell Adventures
The team has arrived and are now well and truly established in Base Camp. Arriving on the 24th, everyone took it quite easy for the first day or so to adjust to the altitude.
Today, with most now reasonably comfortable at the altitude, it is time to stretch the legs with a gentle walk back down the road along which we drove into camp, to visit Rongbuk Monastery.
Tomorrow should see most of the group ready to head out for a bit longer and gain a bit of height. It will be a few more days before we start to travel up the glacier towards ABC.
Jagged Globe – Robert Anderson
On the 24th April the team left Base Camp at 3 am and headed for the Ice Fall. Emerging from the Ice Fall into the Western Cwm they head for Camp 1 which is an hour further on. During the night at Camp 1night the wind blasted at there tents.
The day after at 6 am they headed up again, a day hike to Camp 2. The return to Camp 1 is a gentle wander back down the hill in little more than an hour.
After another night at Camp 1, they drop back down into the icefall at dawn the next morning and were back in Base Camp for an early lunch.
The team are now spending 3 days in Base Camp. They are all well and healthy and everyone has been up to Camp 2.
25th April:
Peak Freaks – Tim Rippel
Due to health concerns the teams eldest climber Nawal Saigal's from the UK, climb is sadly over. He left Base Camp yesterday to begin his journey home. It's hard on the team when someone leaves as they have come a long way together working as team towards a common goal. Nawal says he is happy with his accomplishments as far as his health has allowed him to go. He got to climb in the Western Cwm, a lifetime dream. He will leave here with many good memories, photos, experiences and new friendships he will cherish for a lifetime. Peak Freaks wish him a safe journey home to his loved ones.
Peak Freaks - Martin McHugh
Martin says that he has been resting at Base Camp for a few days and is now moving up to Camp 1 then up to Camp 2 and 3 were he will spend a few nights then descend back down to Camp 1 to rest for a few days then weather permitting he will set out again to Camp 2 and 3 then push for the summit. The summit date has now been brought forward to anytime between the 10-20th of May providing the weather is good.
24th April:
Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart
Geordie says the he reached the North Col at 7,000m two days ago. This means he is acclimatizing well and is going strong in comparison to the whole group. He said that the weather was a little choppy earlier in the week but all is set now.
He is now heading back down to Base Camp, as planned, having spent a few days at Advanced Base Camp this week.
Himalayan Ecstasy – Ed Laughton
Ed gives an update from the past week.
On the 16th April Ed woke up feeling a little nauseous but felt better after breakfast. Ed and team mate John headed up the side of the valley looking for a good signal to send emails. They carried on up the hill and unfortunately Ed’s nausea came back. He got to 5850m but couldn't go on and turned back. On his way down a wave of sickness passed over him and he stumbled, cutting both hands on the sharp rocks. He wrapped the cuts up in tissue then slid down the scree slope to Camp where he washed and wiped them with an alcohol wipe and plastered up.
The 17th April saw Ed make the trip from Base Camp to Intermediate Camp at 5800m. He arrived in Intermediate Camp around 2.30pm after only four hours walking, he was pleased with his time and that he was the first to arrive.
The day after arriving at Intermediate Camp Ed made the ascent to Advanced Base Camp at 6400m. He said “that this was the hardest day I think I may ever have had in my entire life”. The stomach bug/nausea from Base Camp returned and he spent a hellish 6hrs covering 6miles gaining 600m in altitude. He found he couldn't keep anything down, not even water so he was completely void of energy and badly dehydrated when he crawled into his tent at ABC, where eventually he fell to sleep.
Ed found life at ABC hard work, and by that he means everything he did left him tired and out of breath. He said that he enjoys the sun in the morning but in the afternoon the wind picks up, the cloud and snow arrives and he hide in his sleeping bag as the temperature drops below freezing. In the evening they all meet in the dining tent for food before dashing back to the tents to sleep in thermals, down bags etc.
The 22nd April was North Col day. Ed had as much breakfast as he could stomach then got kitted up with harness, jumar, crampons, ice axes etc.
Ed described his climb on the North Col as “a long, exhausting climb on snow and ice”, although “looking back the views where spectacular”. Once at Camp 1 on the North Col (7100m) Ed found his tent marked 'Himalayan Ecstasy He said that “it's an old tent because they get shredded quickly in the wind and the writing is to deter opportunist thieves after oxygen etc”. Ed and John managed to get the laptop working with the satellite and manage to send their pre-written emails, they also received emails from family and the KTM office.
Ed mentions that the climb down was much quicker and far less exhausting but the cloud and snow have come in so they needed to move quickly to keep warm. Back at Camp Ed staggered into the dining tent and gulped down hot sweet tea. He then heads for his tent for the precious, wonderful warmth of the sleeping bag and sleep.
Yesterday, 23rd April was a rest day for Ed. It gave him the chance to do some washing and other little jobs that needed doing. In the afternoon snow came and he retreat again to the tent for warmth.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita is pretty apprehensive right now, as tomorrow the team are leaving Base Camp and heading up onto the hill for five or six days. This could be their last rotation up high before the summit push, so it’s a chance to acclimatize and take up any gear that will be needed higher up later on.
Bonita and the rest of the team we aim to be back down in Base Camp on the 1st or 2nd May, this depends on whether they decide to sleep at Camp 3.
Yesterday Kenton and Bonita trekked down to Gorak Shep with David, who has unfortunately hung up his climbing boots this time due to not sleeping properly at altitude. Bonita spent quite a while in the internet café while down there and then made the trek back to Base Camp alone.
Last night was a movie night at Base Camp, the film was ‘School of Rock’. Everyone thought it was great even though computer died before they saw the end of the film.
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Stu reports in to say that they have had a successful few days up at ABC despite the weather, it's not been the best, very cold winds and a couple of stormy nights. On the rest day most people walked to either crampon corner or the headwall.
Some of the team made the reached the North Col first time round while others retreated and went back the day after. Most of the group have descended down to Base Camp today to rest for a few days, the remaining summit team members will head down tomorrow.
Matt Snook has apparently arrived back into Base Camp after being evacuated back to Kathmandu earlier on in the trip. All the team are pleased to hear he is back and wish him well on his acclimatisation.
Matt Dickinson and Stu and the Lahkpa Ri team will attempt to climb Lhakpa Ri tomorrow. They have had a quick recce to find a route out onto the glacier.
23rd April:
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita trekked down to Gorak Shep, to see David off safely, and while there she managed to upload a few photos to her blog. View them at www.bonitanorris.com
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
Stu reports that the team has had a successful few days up at ABC despite the weather, very cold winds and a couple of stormy nights. On the rest day most people walked to either crampon corner or the headwall.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesby
Josh reports saying that yesterday some of the group climbed to the North Col. This was the first time that they had donned crampons, harnesses etc. 8 people set out, only 3 made it.
Josh says that coming down was an experience, as he had absolutely nothing left in him. He was stumbling and falling, had a dry-wrenching cough, couldn't even talk, eat or drink anything on return to camp, and it made him wonder why on earth he was putting himself through this.
Poor Keith had to put up with Josh and his blood filled hacking cough all night in addition to the usual 'water bottle' stops so I Josh says he owes him some favours when they return to the relative luxuries of Base Camp.
They have to repeat this journey twice more but the next time is said to be far easier due to altitude acclimatisation.
22nd April:
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
The sad news is that poor David hasn’t got over his sleeping problems (David is experiencing profound Chayne Stokes breathing, while this not damaging at all to health it means that sleeping at altitude is almost impossible), and as such has little choice but to call it a day with the Expedition. David had been up to Camp 1 and spent the night there, albeit with a few headaches and then made really good time back to Base Camp the following day.
Kenton has known David for a number of years, they had both stood on top of the Eiger in Switzerland together and have built up a special bond between them.
Kenton is gutted about David’s departure and wishes him safe travel back to Kathmandu and then onwards to home and the lovely Shelia.
Dream Guides - Bonita Norris
Bonita is now back in Base Camp having been to Camp 1. The team left yesterday morning in darkness, at about 4.30am.
Bonita says that in general she is now much more scared of the ice fall than what she was before. This is mainly because she tends to look at her feet instead of looking up, and getting stuck behind other climbers waiting to cross ladders etc.
The moment she came over the final lip of the icefall, the sun burst into view and its warmth flooded her as she took her first look at Lhotse and the Western Cwm, and described it as “incredible”.
The final walk to Camp 1 was fairly easy compared to the stress of the ice fall. Bonita and her team mates arrived into Camp 1 at around 10am.
Once her tent was sorted out it was a matter of drinking plenty and to recover from the day’s exertion.
During the night at Camp 1 they had a storm that lasted all night. Bonita described it as “it was like 50 men were punching and shoving the tent from every direction”.
As the sun rose, the winds did not abate- Lynette, who was sharing the tent with Bonita began boiling water at 6am. They could just about hear each other over the roar, and getting ready and packed to head back down to Base Camp took nearly two hours with many breaks to catch their breath.
On the descent to Base Camp Bonita was absolutely terrified crossing a two ladder section as it was swaying so much. She eventually cursed herself for making such a fuss about it.
Once she was safely back in Base Camp she realised that the altitude gain to Camp 1 didn’t affect her much- apart from the loss of appetite She had no headache and resting pulse and breathing rates were are all good.
Dream Guides – Fi Ramsden
Fi reports in for the first time since over two weeks ago, she says that satellite internet connection have prevented her from keeping up to date with progress.
Fi got to Base Camp on 10th April after a long walk from Pheriche. After a couple of days of resting she ventured in to the icefall for the first taste of things to come, practicing walking in crampons over ladders etc.
Fi says that the 16th April had to be one of her toughest days she has ever had getting from Base Camp through the Khumbu icefall to Camp 1. She arrived in to Camp 1 well behind the others. However she recovered quickly and coped well with the altitude, and after a reasonable night’s sleep at Camp1 she felt a lot better. The next day she made it to Camp 2 in very good time and with no problems. She stopped there for a while to make the most of the altitude gain before heading back down to Base Camp.
Four days on and she is now packed and ready for an early start tomorrow as they make their way up the hill for 2-3 nights at Camp 2 and possibly a further night at Camp 3.
Since arriving back in Base Camp from Camp 2 Fi has been troubled with an annoying cough, this is almost certainly from the cold dry air. She has decided to go as light as possible tomorrow and just see how I go.
Jagged Globe – Robert Anderson
The team are safely back in Base Camp, having slept up at Camp 1 and climbed to Camp 2 over the last 3 days. They are going to have a few days of rest in Base Camp now, before heading up once more.
21st April:
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin is now back in Base Camp, he is very tired and he didn’t make it up to Camp 2 as he was dehydrated so held back with Ade and they set off a few hours later than the rest of the team when he was feeling better, when they met up with the team they all came back down together, he said coming down is a lot easier than going up, they are now on a few days rest at Base Camp.
IMG
Some of the team and their Sherpa’s, headed up through the Icefall yesterday and now they are at Camp 1 resting comfortably. Their plan is to spend two nights up there, then move on up to Camp 2. The next wave of IMG climbers will head up to Camp 1 day after tomorrow. Everyone is doing well.
Adventure Peaks - Stu Peacock
On the 19th April the team reached ABC, everyone had the impressive views of Everest up close as well as the North Col and Lhkapa Ri. Overall everyone is fine, the odd cough but nothing major. Tomorrow (20th) is a rest day.
On the 21st April the first group of people will prepare and attempt to go up to the North Col tomorrow. Stu will take some more people up to the head wall tomorrow and then the final lot of people on Thursday.
Seven Summits Club
Yesterday the 7 Summits team left Base Camp for the first time to move up to the intermediate base camp (IBC) for the night.
The team left after breakfast yesterday at 11:30 local time, with everyone arriving around 18:00, just before dinner. The slow pace was designed to keep everyone together and allow everyone to arrive fresh and without any major altitude issues.
Fully hydrated and well fed, the team slept through the night until the sun hit their tents at around 09:00 today. After a good meal they prepared and packed their things and returned to Base Camp.
They are all now back in Base Camp, having just finished a late lunch, everyone queuing for the showers. They will spend the next three nights at Base Camp to complete stage 1 of the acclimatisation process. Afterwards, the plan is to head up to Advanced Base Camp and spend 1 night there and return.
20th April:
Peak Freaks - Martin McHugh
Martin reports on the last few days. On the 16th April Martin climbed Kala Patar that over looks Base Camp giving great views of Mount Everest. He then descended down to Gorak Shep and had a 2 hour walk back to Base Camp where it started to snow.
On the 17th April Marin says that the team is all tucked into their tents at Camp 1. It was slow going, a trip that would normally take 5 hours turned into 10. Tomorrow they will move up to Camp 2 and retreat back down to Base Camp. Camp 3 is going to be fixed on Apr 22. The weather is good and no wind
On the 18th April he was on the move to Camp 2 after lunch we will drop down to Base Camp, the weather remains good.
19th April:
Jagged Globe - Robert M Anderson
Saturday the team were up at 3am and away promptly at 4am for there first foray up the icefall.
Just as the sun rises, they crossed the first of two ladders, double sections strapped together that cross crevasses disappearing into black depths below. The 'popcorn' above leads them up into an immense area of rolling ice hillocks, before they enter a final broken canyon of ice leading to the headwalls leading up and out of the icefall.
At 8:30 am they started the long descent back to Base Camp, having reached just under 6,000 meters. By noon they were all safely back down, tucking into cold juices, pasta and soup.
Yesterday (Sunday) was spent adjusting their gear, review radios, stoves and other equipment.
Today the team will head back into the icefall at 3 am tomorrow to go up and spend a few nights at Camp I.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita reports to say that she has finally reached Base Camp and have already been into the ice fall, which she says “is the best day of my life”. She said that “getting the harness on and fixing the crampons onto my boots, I couldn’t contain my excitement”, although she did have a few butterflies in her stomach.
Bonita’s acclimatization is going well, although keeping up with Kenton in the icefall left her pretty exhausted and headachy. She says she has had a bit of trouble sleeping as she hates sleeping bags, but generally for living at 5,300m she couldn’t feel better.
Bonita is enjoying things at Base Camp, showers, playing Monopoly, resting and eating.
By the end of next week she hopes to be sleeping at Camp 2, though this is entirely up to Kenton and the logistics set up on the hill.
Peak Freaks
Everyone is currently on the move to Camp 2. They left really early in the morning to get up and down again in good time and to avoid the day time heat. After lunch at Camp 2 the plan is for them to retreat back to Base Camp.
The weather has been amazing. Hardly any wind to speak of and mostly dry. Nothing in the forecast for the next while either so it will be full steam ahead for the Sherpa’s putting everything into place. The Sherpa’s will be starting to ferry oxygen up in the next few days.
Tim commented on Facebook that it took the team ten hours to get to Camp 1 compared to the normal time of five. This is because there are more ladders than normal to negotiate and there are also a lot of Sherpa’s on the route moving equipment at this stage of the expedition. Some expeditions are just now starting to pull into base camp and because of this each day seems to get busier.
18th April:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Phil reports to say that the team have just completed there first Camp 1 and Camp 2 rotation and all the team members are now back resting at base Camp.
The complete team along with Lhapka Tsheri Sherpa and Lhapka Sherpa climbed to Camp 1 on the morning of the 15th where they spent the evening. The following day they made the short walk to Camp 2 where they spent two evenings to aid in there acclimatization process.
The Sherpas have now got Camp 2 complete so tomorrow they will start to ferry oxygen to Camp 2 in anticipation of the route being fixed to the South Col.
The team will rest for a few days before heading back up the mountain, directly to Camp 2 and then a few days later tagging Camp 3.
17th April:
Himalayan Ecstasy – Ed Laughton
Ed made it to Base Camp on Wednesday with no problems and he is pleased to be there. Ed reports that there have been snow storms overnight with lightning around Everest which was stunning to watch. Ed and other team members have been busy building the cairn/flagpole for the Puja ceremony which took place on Thursday, they have also been to the Rongbuk monastery to be blessed by the lama.
Today (Saturday) Ed and the team are on an acclimatisation hike up the hill side, with the added benefit of getting a satellite signal 300 vertical meters above camp. They leave for intermediate camp tomorrow, then on to Advanced Base Camp at 6400m the day after. Views are stunning but it seems to be getting colder with water bottles freezing inside tents etc.
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton reports that the team is now on its 4th day of Base Camp life and it’s been pretty busy.
The very day after they arrived the whole team got together for the Puja, this very important ceremony was conducted by the Lama who lives in Pangbouche. The whole expedition was blessed, hoping for a successful and safe expedition. As ever there was much fun during and after, with one or two of the Sherpa’s having a little too much Chang (local beer).
The next day they all ventured a little way into the icefall, it was a chance for those who haven't been on crampons for a while to get a feel for things again. It also presented the first of the famous Everest ladders to cross, Bonita was especially good crossing these little devils.
Today has been the first real rest day since Dingbouche and it has been a chance to shower and wash dusty socks after the trek to Base Camp.
Tomorrow will be back into the icefall with the view to get to the top.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin has been in touch to say all is ok, the earthquake in Tibet had no effect on them, Martin and Ade had heard about it on the little radio Martin took with him they listen in to the world service, they have had some snow that quickly disappeared down in Base Camp but they have some storms forecast and are expecting up to a meter of snow, so they have all been busy preparing there tents and camp for the storm.
They also have had a day climbing in the Ice Falls which they found very tiring but enjoyable.
Adventure Peaks – Mathew Snook and Peter Sunnucks
Today, Mathew received some good news.
Medically he is now fully fit. Being in the state he was in when he was initially air-lifted to hospital, the Doc was very reluctant to write him a "fit to climb" certificate, but with a little persuasion, another chest x-ray and ECG, Mathew managed to persuade her that he is at least back to normal, and the chances of things going wrong on the hill again are no greater than they were when he first arrived.
His concern now is how the hell doe’s he get back to Base Camp!
16th April:
Jagged Globe – Robert Anderson
Robert reports that yesterday the team headed halfway up through the icefall. They will have their Puja ceremony today, then head up again towards Camp 1 on Saturday, before returning to Base Camp. A couple of people in the team have been having stomach problems, but they seem to be settling down now. They're taking it easy and easing into the climbing phase slowly.
Over the next couple of weeks, they'll be making their way up to Camp 1, then Camp 2 at the back of the Wester Cwm, with the aim of spending a night at Camp 3 on the Lhotse Face, before descending off the mountain and back down the Khumbu Valley.
Tomorrow they will head back into the icefall, planning on going to the top of it, before returning to Base Camp for a day, then back up to stay at Camp 1
The climbing team are all well and healthy.
Peak Freaks
Yesterday the team spent the day climbing in the icefall, gaining experience and skills needed for the climb later on.
Today is a rest day for the team at Base Camp.
Peak Freaks - Martin McHugh
Martin reports that they worked on their skills higher up in the icefall yesterday and retreated to Base Camp.
15th April:
Peak Freaks
Today the team worked on skills higher up in the icefall and retreated to Base Camp. Lucille continued on to Camp 1 and is now back at Back Camp. Nasuh and Yilmaz are currently sleeping at Camp 1.
Icefall: Tim said the icefall was holding ok and he felt comfortable. He added that there has been a lot of traffic through there the past couple of days with Sherpa’s hauling loads and everything seems to be sticking together pretty good in the path they are following.
Tomorrow is a rest day for everyone and then the next day (April 16), the team will going up Kala Pattar (5,545 metres/18,192 ft). A non-technical peak offering magnificent views of Everest and neighbouring peaks. It is pretty close to the elevation of Camp 1 so this will give them some altitude gain and eliminating having to make two trips to Camp 1 reducing their time in the icefall.
IMG
Back at Base Camp, the Sherpa’s are taking a rest day today after carrying to Camp 2 two days in a row. They now have almost everything we need at Camp 2 except for one of the big tents and some more food. Ang Pasang and Shyam will be sorting out Camp 2 foods today. Then, Camp 2 will be ready for the climbers when they start heading up the hill!
Adventure Peaks – Stu Peacock
The team had a walk up the ridge, most people got to 6000m, some 5800m and some 5600m. Due to a dump of snow this made the ridge walk a bit more interesting. They had there Puja today and everyone enjoyed it, especially the Tsampa fight, which left everyone including the lama from the monastery covered in flour.
They will now be heading up to Intermediate camp on Sunday, a slight delay of a day but it does mean the Sherpa’s will have ABC completely set up for when they arrive. Friday and Saturday are rest days, so we may wander down to the Rongbuk.
Adventure Peaks - Mathew Snook
Mathew woke up in hospital this morning high on drugs. He got released from the Hospital this afternoon with some anti-biotics and instructions to return for a check-up on Friday morning.
He say’s that he feels fit and well and don't believe that they would have released him if they had serious concerns. He will hopefully know more on Friday.
Adventure Peaks – Stephen Green
Stephen reports that the reason for the radio silence has been that since arriving at Base Camp the Sat Phone hasn’t been getting reception due to the angle of the satellite. Unfortunately this means that, at the moment at least, no emails & no blogs – just temporarily though!
Stephen and the team are currently resting for two days at Base Camp after an acclimatisation climb today, up to 6000m. They aim to push for Advanced Base Camp (ABC) after this rest period, and hopefully here they will have more luck with the Sat Phone reception… fingers crossed!
14th April:
IMG
IMG leader Justin Merle reports that the Everest climbers are preparing for their acclimatization trip to Lobuche Peak.
Meanwhile, today the Sherpas made their first big push up the hill, with 21 Sherpas carrying loads to Camp 1, and 14 Sherpas carrying loads to Camp 2.
Adventure Peaks
At present they are unable to send or receive emails due to the angle and location of the satellite receiver. This situation should be rectified when they move up to ABC.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesby
Josh and Keith report that aside from general fatigue they have as yet not suffered from the altitude. They are both still at Base Camp, relaxing, chores, etc.
Adventure Peaks - Mathew Snook and Peter Sunnucks
Both Mathew and Peter made it to Base Camp and were amazed at the incredible views of the mountain and its surroundings.
However, while Peter is still fighting fit and acclimatising well with the rest of the team, Mathew is in the Norvic International Hospital in Kathmandu with a suspected case of pneumonia, High Altitude Pulmonary Eodema (HACE) and High Altitude Cerebral Eodema (HACE).
At this stage the doctors are also concerned there may be a problem with his heart as well. Mathew should get his test results back tomorrow, and they will determine whether his expedition is over or not.
13th April:
IMG
Eric Simonson reports that everyone is doing well. There camp for the next couple of months is spacious and clean, which is a 10 minute hike below the traditional campsite in a place with good tent sites and good clean water.
Yesterday Mingma Tenzing and Karma Rita take another quick run back up to Camp 1 & 2 to make sure that the camps they claimed are still secure, since there is now increased traffic in the Icefall as other teams start to head up.
This morning was the Sherpa puja. This puja event goes on and on for several hours with lots of Buddhist chanting by the lama, who will periodically throw tsampa (roaster barley flour) and rice in the air. The Sherpa and many of the climbers will bring their crampons and ice axes over to the puja alter, smear them with globs of butter for good luck and procure favourable blessings from the lama. The IMG puja culminates in the unfurling of many long strands of colourful prayer flags from the central alter and flag pole, and more tsampa throwing and finally rubbing tsampa into everyone's faces (the idea is that you will have a "grey beard," thus will live to be old). Finally, the Sherpa’s start dancing and singing while enjoying the locally brewed chang beer that gets passed around.
Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart
Geordie reports that he is now in Base Camp and looking forward in going to ABC in a few days time, then eventually up to the North Col.
12th April:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
Yesterday saw the group make their first foray into the icefall. They went roughly for one and half hours and crossed four ladders to practice the techniques needed for safe passage.
The Altitude Junkies Sherpas have already established Camp 1 and Camp 2 and are now stocking Camp 2 to allow the team to spend a few evenings there in a few days time.
The climbers are all in good health apart from the few coughs that are common when first arriving at Base Camp.
Jagged Globe - Robert Anderson
The Jagged Globe team have now reached Base Camp.
This morning they woke to frost on their tents and memories of avalanches rumbling down throughout the night, as the glacier popped and cracked and slid down the mountain below them. With everyone safely reaching Base Camp, they look forward to a few days exploring the lower reaches of the Khumbu Icefall, meeting a few more climbing teams, and enjoying a steady stream of great food emanating from our Chefs kitchen.
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita and some of the other team members are exhausted so after talking to Kenton it was advised for them to go back down to Dingboche to recover.
Now back in Dingboche Bonita says ‘her hands have swollen up with oedema and we all have headaches from ascending so fast’.
Bonita and the others hope to be back in Base Camp in a day or two, fully recovered and itching to start her climb on Mount Everest.
11th April:
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita says that the last few days have been great, and are now having a rest day in Dengboche, before crossing tomorrow into the Khumbu valley and make a bee line for Everest Base Camp.
Bonita reports that hygiene is going down the pan pretty fast and that the toilets are foul, she is also worried about getting sick though so far nothing to report.
The terrain is more like what she had expected from the walk in- long walks through valleys with mountains towering around us- Pumori yesterday and Ama Dablam still shadows over them.
Bonita is now really itching to get to Base Camp and take on the hill, which should be in about 3 day’s time, although she says she would love another week acclimatising.
Adventure Peaks
The team have now arrived at Base Camp which they described as very comfortable! They will now spend around six days acclimatising on walks from Base Camp up to about 6000m before moving up to ABC.
10th April:
Altitude Junkies – Phil Crampton
The climbing team had all arrived into Base Camp a day ahead of schedule on the 8th. They skipped the night at Gorak Shep as they were all feeling strong and most of them know how their body acclimatizes at these elevations. They are now letting the five kitchen staff pamper them before they start their rotations up the mountain.
Lama Geshe in Pangboche told our Sherpas that April 9th was the most auspicious day for a puja this season so following his instructions we held our service yesterday. We had a lot of fun and at the conclusion of the ceremony our Sirdar, Dorjee Sherpa and Phil Crampton invited several of there Sherpa friends from various expeditions to join them and help finish off the supplies from the Puja.
One of the teams Sherpa’s travelled to Camp 2 with a Sherpa from the RMI expedition today to establish the Altitude Junkies campsite. They will once again be in their usual Camp 2 location.
Tomorrow will see the team take their first foray into the icefall where they will climb up to the first sets of ladders to practice the techniques needed to travel safely on this part of the climb.
The team are all in good health and very keen to get into the icefall and start climbing.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin is now at Base Camp getting use to his tent that will be home for the next 50 days, he has showered and shaved and as feeling good.
Martin had said that it had been a tough trek to Base Camp and he is now looking forward to a few days rest, checking over equipment and taking in some fantastic views.
His climbing buddy Ade has had a bit of a tummy upset but is now a lot better.
In a few days time there will be blessing when all the climbing equipment will be blessed then they will be ready to start on the big one.
9th April
Himalayan Ecstasy – Ed Laughton
Ed has been in touch to say that the team of John, Kenny, Anil, Dipen, Lakpa, Tenji and Ed have safely got through the border into Tibet/China and after a night close to the border they are now up to 3700m in the trade town of Nyling. They have caught up with a couple of the other expeditions and the temperature has dropped significantly from Kathmandu. Acclimatisation trek tomorrow then they will go over a 5200m pass before dropping for a couple more nights on the road to Base camp. Expected to arrive in BC on the 12th and will send update as soon as the satellite gear is up and running.
Ed also wants to say a massive thanks to all the kind folk who have donated - we've smashed the 3000 pound barrier without adding gift aid! Also, a big thanks to sponsors, especially Vango whose gear has been excellent so far and the fantastic guys at the Himalayan Ecstasy office in KTM.
Dream Guides
The Everest team left Namche Bizaar today on route for Debouche. Yesterday was spent as a rest day but a few headed up the hill to get some great views of Everest.
The team all set off just after 8am this morning for the next part of the trek.
Peak Freaks - Martin McHugh
Martin says that they are now at Base Camp, there home for the next 50 days. Camp was already set up on Martin’s arrival, with all mod cons such as solar power, DVD player, games, heat and showers. Once settled in at Base Camp, Martin and his ream mates will then start preparations and training for their climb on Mount Everest.
8th April:
Dream Guides - Fi Ramsden
Fi reports that most of the team is now together in Pangboche. Fi also says ‘that it was great to finally see Rob who has been trekking and has already been up to Base Camp’.
The team are planning an acclimatisation trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp today, then onwards tomorrow to Pheriche and then Everest Base Camp hopefully on the10th April.
Peak Freaks - Martin McHugh
Martin reports that he and the rest of the team are now in Lobuche and hope to arrive in Base Camp tomorrow.
He says that the team has heard the news that the Ice Doctors have fixed the route through the ice fall to camp 1.
On April the 5th they took part in the Puja ceremony preformed by the Lama Geshis in Pangboche, this is a spiritual blessing, there will be another one at Base Camp.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesby
Josh reports that they are now finally on there way and after leaving the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu. He says “The group seems a really great blend with everyone having interesting and diverse tales to tell of why they’re here and thus what path they’ve taken in life”. Yesterday provided ample opportunity for everyone to get to know each other with over 7 hours on the bus and the fascinating border crossing over the ‘friendship’ bridge into Chinese territory.
Josh has felt under the weather the past couple of days with a bad case of food poisoning and has attempted to spend most of the time trying to get some sleep.
Tomorrow they intend to get out and stretch there legs with an acclimatization ascent of 700m.
Adventure Peaks - Stephen Green
Stephen says that they are gradually progressing up to Base Camp. They arrived at Nyalam yesterday morning to a street full of dogs and yaks running about causing havoc.
They set out on an acclimatization walk up to 4100m. At the top there were some nice looking boulders, so some of them made up a few climbing routes and had fun trying to complete them while others relaxed and took in the views.
Back at the hotel Stephen mentions that he shared his room with a spider over his bed that was the size of a crab!
Tomorrow we will be driving up to Tingri. On the drive up they will be climbing to a plateau of 5000m before descending again to 4500m. Here they will once again spend two days before moving on up to Base Camp.
7th April:
Dream Guides
The Everest team are now 2 days into their ten day trek to Base Camp and things are all going really well. They are all currently at Namche Bizaar, the biggest of the Khumbu Villages.
They are going to spend 2 nights here letting their bodies get use to the altitude. Tomorrow is a rest day, but they will probably do a short hike to get some good views of the surrounding Mountains
Dream Guides – Bonita Norris
Bonita reports that seeing Mount Everest for the first time today was something special, she says ‘its huge, black and looks a million miles away’.
She also mentions that the group has been fab, everyone has so many stories, we tend to get into the tea houses quite early, and with no distractions in last nights tea house- like TV or music, they spend hours chatting, writing journals, playing board games and eating!
Tomorrow is a rest day, she says that she is feeling fine and that her resting heart rate is still the same as at sea level, exerting oneself suddenly has more of an effect, but generally we have no complaints, no illnesses and no injuries- touch wood!
Bonita finally says that she is really itching to get to Base Camp but its also nice to relax before the pressure of living and climbing in such a dangerous place begins.
Peak Freaks
Today they accomplished an acclimatization hike above Dingboche to the top of Nangkar Tsrang- 5010m/16,432ft.
They also got the lowdown on the status of the icefall doctor’s progress. The icefall has been fixed and the route has been put in up to Camp 1.
Tomorrow they will move up to Lobuche and hopefully the day after tomorrow will see them in Base Camp
Adventure Peaks - Stephen Green
Stephen reports that he has made it to 2700m! After a tyre blow out on the truck and many near misses he had arrived in China. He will be spending the night in Zhang Mu before continuing on up the mountain roads tomorrow morning, hoping to reach Base Camp on Sunday.
6th April:
Jagged Globe
The Jagged Globe team made the short trek to Tangboyche and arrive just in time for a Puja ceremony, a group of monks chanting together in the main temple of the monastery.
Everyone is feeling good, fit and well acclimatized. They are aiming to head up the valley tomorrow to the small village of Dubla, then onto Lobuche, Gorak Shep and eventually Everest Base Camp.
Adventure Peaks - Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesby
Josh Lewsey and Keith Reesbyhave just had their first experience of life in Kathmandu. They found it quite a shock to the senses when they entered Nepal and travelled from the airport to there city centre hotel. Keith says ‘the city is noisy, vibrant, lively and exciting, and despite the obvious poverty of much of the population, it's still friendly and unintimidating’.
The Tibetan visas have been sorted out for the team and they intend to hit the road tomorrow morning to gain a bit of altitude before starting the acclimatization treks in a couple of days.
5th April: Evening Update
Altitude Junkies - Phil Crampton
Phil is now in Dingboche with the rest of the climbing team. He reports that everyone is in good health and Dorjee sherpa has done an excellent job of making sure everybody is eating and drinking well.
The Altitude Junkies base camp is now been finished and the Sherpas are enjoying a few well-deserved rest days before the climbers arrive hopefully on April 9th.
Dream Guides – Kenton Cool
Kenton reports that the whole team are finally together. They are Lynette, Bonita, David, Tom, Rick who are all climbing and Alma, Mick and Lewis who are trekking with them.
Today was spent testing all the communication equipment it and it looks like everything is all set for the trek to Base Camp. They are aiming for the 1st flight to Lukla tomorrow morning and then from there they will be heading to Monjo for there first night of the trek. After that it is then on to Namche were they will spend a couple of days acclimatizing.
Peak Freaks
The team are now in Dingboche (4410m/14500ft). They will spend two nights here to allow there bodies to acclimatize. Tomorrow they will hike above Dingboche to gain more altitude pushing there acclimatization into gear and then retreat to sleep at Dingboche once again.
Adventure Peaks
The team have now arrived safely in Kathmandu and no luggage has gone missing! The team have settled down well in the Hotel Malla, and enjoyed a few drinks in town. All visas have been given to the team and they will leave Kathmandu for Zhang Mu tomorrow.
5th April:
Adventure Peaks - Geordie Stewart
Geordie reports that he has finally arrived safe and well in a hectic Kathmandu. He has meet the rest of the team members who he will be sharing his climb with, they are of mixed ages, experience, background and nationalities.
Hopefully tomorrow will see the team make a start on there trek in getting a little closer to Mount Everest Base Camp.
Adventure Peaks - Peter Sunnucks and Mathew Snook
Peter and Mathew have also arrived in Kathmandu. They mention that it is an incredible city and that the roads are crazy.
They have spent the last day sorting out kit, learning about the oxygen systems they will be using on Everest and meeting up with the rest of the team.
Last night they ate at the Doodle Rum bar, which is a well know place for climbers and trekkers to meet up.
They hope to leave for the Tibetan boarder tomorrow and begin there trek up to Base Camp.
Adventure Peaks – Stephen Green
Stephen reports that he has officially made it to Kathmandu in one piece safe and well. He has meet the rest of his expedition team mates and is hoping that tomorrow they will begin the journey to the border and out of Tibet.
4th April: Evening Update
Himalayan Ecstasy – Edward Laughton
Ed reports to say that all is well and that it looks like he and the rest of the team could be heading into Tibet on the 7th April, fingers crossed.
He also said that he had a great days shopping today for the most 'unhealthy' calorie laden food imaginable he says. The new satellite equipment got tested from the roof of the Himalayan Ecstasy office in central Thamel and all worked fine.
Ed also had the chance to meet up with some of his friends at the Himalayan Rescue Association, and whilst there they presented him with a plaque for his help with the Nepali Prime Ministers climate change meeting in Namche last autumn.
4th April:
Dream Guides - Fi Ramsden
Fi reports that the teams rest day turned in to a restless day so they decided to go on a bit of an acclimatisation trek up the hill from Namche. From there they got a great view of Ama Dablam, Mount Everest and Nuptse. Fi mentioned that she couldn’t believe how bare Everest and the Nuptse wall looked compared to the last two times she was there. She thinks it might make it more of a difficult climb but then hopefully a less risk of any major avalanche happening.
Peak Freaks – Martin McHugh
Martin reports that he arrived in Lukla on 1st of April safe and sound before the weather closed in closing off the airport. The trek up to Namche Bazaar went well, arriving there on the 2nd April for an overnight stay. He says the team seems to be in high sprits, which is good, and that there had been a number of thunderstorms.
Martin had a problem with the zip on his fleece that he mended only to break again later. He has now brought himself a new fleece!
3rd April:
Dream Guides - Fi Ramsden
Fi had a frantic night packing and managed just a hour and a half’s sleep before the 5:15 pick-up to catch the flight to Lukla.
After a long days trek Fi made it to Monjo by about 4:30pm, having bumped in to a few old faces along the way. She was in bed before sun down at Monjo and woke up bright and early yesterday, ready to attack the steep hill up to Namche Bazaar.
Today Fi is enjoying a rest day in the market town of Namche Bazaar. ‘A fairly steep climb to get here, but worth it for the views, sit down loo and hot shower’ she says.
Peak Freaks
The team have reached Namche Bazaar at 3444 m/ 11300 ft. They are all nestled in at the Zamling Lodge and everyone is doing really well.
Tomorrow they will make there visit to Khunde and Khumjung, home of many of the teams climbing Sherpas. Have lunch at Ang Nima's house, visit the Hillary School and nip in to have a visit at the hospital.
2nd April:
Altitude Junkies
The group are now on their way to Phakding after making the first Lukla flight from Kathmandu.
The next few days will see the team follow a cautious approach to base camp where they should arrive on April 9th. Phil Crampton will drop lower down the valley to meet the team in a few days time somewhere around Namche Bazar or Dingboche.
There Sherpa team have done a great job of establishing base camp and all that is left to do now is to build the chorten for our Puja ceremony on April 9.
Jagged Globe
The team have arrived safely in Katmandu.
At dawn on Monday morning they are off to Lukla, taking the hair raising flight in a twin engine prop plane to the tiny airstrip perched in the Himalayan foothills.
They then have a two week trek to Everest Base Camp.
The team is all well and healthy, feasting on thick waffles, rice porridge and steaming cups of Sherpa tea.
Dream guides
Kenton Cool has now arrived at the Summit Hotel in Kathmandu. He is pleased to be there and to catch up with friends.
Kenton reports that half the team are already in town and are all looking well and very fit, so much so that I'm a little concerned about keeping up with them all! The next few days will be spent doing loads of little tasks, as ever there are a million and one loose ends that need to be tied before we fly to Lukla on the morning of the 6th.
Peak Freaks
Everyone is safe and sound in Monjo. It is here that the team will enjoy their first good sleep since their arrival in Nepal.
31st March: Ed Laughton climbing with Himalayan Ecstasy
Ed is now in Kathmandu after a successful three week trek to Kanchanjanga north base camp. Part of his Everest warm up included a 6000m peak which went well. Ed is currently doing his last bit of sorting out before leaving for Tibet.
The rest of the expedition members have now started to filter in and around Kathmandu.
29th March: Altitude Junkies
Phil Crampton, leader of the Altitude Junkies expedition has arrived at base camp. The day before the majority of his Sherpas and porter loads had arrived. They will now spend the next week or so building there own camp which will consist of a kitchen, dinning, communication, medical, storage and sleeping tents.
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