Mount Everest The British Story
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Mount Everest Dispatches
11/3/2010 6:42:32 PM
I have been asked a couple of times via email lately if I will be doing Mount Everest dispatches again this spring.
 
Yes, I will be, but only for the British Expeditions. Why only British Expeditions? Well, mainly because that is what my website is all about, the British side of things on Mount Everest.
 
As soon as the First British team arrives at Base Camp I will then start my dispatches. This will be done daily as long as there is anything to report. When the teams are ready for the summit attempt I usually try and post as much as I can throughout the day and evening.
 
If you are a member of Facebook why not become my friend at www.facebook.com/MountEverestTheBritishStory and I will try and keep you updated this way with the latest news.
 
Please do take the time and read the dispatches, if you have any information I have not mentioned then please let me know.
 
For those who are interested in dispatches about all the expeditions on Mount Everest I suggest you paying my friend Alan Arnette across the pond in the USA a visit. Alan’s dispatches are excellent and well detailed. I am sure he lives at his computer 24 hours a day during the Everest season!
 
You will find his dispatches at www.alanarnette.com/news well worth the visit!
British woman's bid to be youngest Everest climber
9/3/2010 3:13:33 PM
A novice climber is holding a series of auctions to raise money for her bid to become the youngest British female to reach the top of Mount Everest.
 
Bonita Norris, 22, from Wokingham in Berkshire, hopes to climb 8848m (29,030ft) to the summit of the world's most famous mountain in May.
 
She is auctioning three flags which will feature the highest bidders' name or personal message from next Sunday.
 
She will take the three flags with her on her climb.
 
Welsh climber Tori James, 25, claimed the title in May 2007.
 
Family support
 
Ms Norris, who went to the The Holt School, said: "Eighteen months ago I decided that I wanted to climb Mount Everest.
 
"Mad? Maybe, but I am totally committed.
 
"My family's response was, 'You have never climbed before, why of all things do you choose to climb the highest mountain in the world?'."
 
Despite their initial misgivings, the media graduate added that they have been "incredibly supportive".
 
Ms Norris has since demonstrated her determination and dedication to overcome the odds by climbing Mount Manaslu in Nepal four months ago.
 
At 8,156m (26,758ft), it is the eighth highest mountain in the world.
Ms Norris will be climbing Mt Everest to raise money for Global Angels, an international foundation championing the causes of children around the world which is aimed at empowering them and their communities.
 
The first of the three flag auctions will be held on Sunday.
 
Source: BBC News
Youngest Indian ready for Everest
6/3/2010 3:39:17 PM
In 2009, 19-year-old Krushnaa Patil became the youngest Indian to summit Mount Everest. This year, the bar has been upped, as 16-year-old Arjun Vajpai tries his luck at replacing Patil for the prestigious title.

Having trained professionally in mountaineering for the last five years, Vajpai, who has just finished his class 11 examinations from Ryans International School, New Delhi, is ready for the 2-month long expedition.
 
"It is difficult, but it's challenging. At many stages, even if I feel that I am going to lose, I know I can try again some time later," says Arjun Vajpai.

The expedition that will start from Kathmandu on March 26 will be a mixed group -- two people from Canada, two from the US, one person from Mexico and three from India, excluding him.

But making his journey to Everest possible, was a trek that began long before the training. Struggling to find sponsors for the trip that costs over 30 lakh, Vajpai's parents had given up on any support from the government and managed to assemble funds through personal sources.

"We tried getting in touch with everyone, but there was no response. We recently got in touch with SAIL also, but have not heard from them yet," says Priya Vajpai, Arjun's mother. She continues, "Our friends have been very supportive, which is why we have been able to arrange for the funding. Hopefully, we will get sponsors if he makes it, but if he doesn't, that might be difficult. What's important is that he is getting an opportunity to pursue his passion. I've told him I want him back. Life is more important than anything else, and there are always second chances. Nothing is more precious than your life."

Excerpts from the interview with Arjun Vajpai

What do you love most about trekking?

The adventure and the thrill of reaching the peak is something that makes me want to go back again and again. One gets addicted to the view that can't be captured from any camera.

Are you nervous? It's a very dangerous trek...

A bit now, because I have been meeting people who have already climbed the Everest.
Which was the last mountain you climbed?

On October 1, 2009, I climbed the Draupadi Ka Danda 2, also called DKD2, a peak in the hills of Garhwal. I also hold the record for the youngest person to summit that peak.

Apart from the training, what do you need to remember for this trip?

The information I get from people who have already climbed Everest. There are many health problems and conditions. I need to know the basic symptoms to be able to take precautions well in time.

What is the next challenge after the Mount Everest?

I would like to go for the Seven Summit trek. They are the seven highest points in all the continents.

Do you want to make mountaineering a profession?

As much as I would like to do this full time, it is a very expensive sport. I am also an Indian Army aspirant. We are still looking for sponsors. We tried contacting Kingfisher and HCL, but no one responded. All said that their funds had already been invested, because it is nearing the end of the financial year. 
 

Source: NEW DELHI, Hindustan Times
Poll Results
1/3/2010 12:08:19 PM
I have just added a new Poll on the home page for the month of March. Please take your vote!
 
If you have a question relating to Mount Everest and its climbers you would like to see as the monthly poll then please let me know.
 
Here are the results from the February Poll:
 
Will Andrew Irvine be found?
 
59% Yes
27% No
14% Not Sure
Mount Everest Books
26/2/2010 6:50:23 PM
There are many books on the subject of Mount Everest, some good, some hard to put down and others where you give up reading it half way through.
I never read books while at school, I found them boring. I did not start reading books until the mid 1990’s when I became interested in Mount Everest. Since then, well, I have read lots and lots!
I now have a very nice collection of first edition Mount Everest books with many of them signed by the author or climber that wrote it.
If you are reading this blog then I take it that you have an interest in Mount Everest, therefore, what is your top three Mount Everest related books that you have read?
Mine are as follows:
1. The Fight for Everest 1924 by Edward Norton
2. The Climb: Tragic Ambitions on Everest by Anatoli Boukreev and G. Weston Dewalt
3. Everest The West Ridge by Tom Hornbein
No Irvine Expedition this Year
22/2/2010 7:29:11 PM
“The deadline for obtaining funding for a 2010 mini search expedition to Everest North side has passed, and we have only succeeded in obtaining a small portion of the pledges necessary to pull the trigger,” Historian Tom Holzel wrote in an email to friends and members in the Andrew Irvine's Search Committee last week.

Branson doesn't want to play

”The London Sunday Times even put in a query to Richard Branson but that didn't pan out. Nor have two other nibbles, one to a Russian climber and one to a Middle-Eeastern summiter.”

"We knew it was an almost impossible task to raise so much money in so short a time--but almost impossible never stops the true explorer," Tom Holzel reported." And, to quote Hillary: "Nothing ventured, nothing win."

And now - what?

As it seems, "Sandy" Irvine will have to wait for one more year - unless someone else finds him. Tom openly published all research so it's not unlikely that some Mount Everest climber and/or Sherpa will take a look at the area, around 8,425m.

"Because the putative location of Irvine has been so widely publicized, we shall wait until after this spring climbing season before considering a more traditional attempt to fund-raise for a concerted effort in 2011," Holzel stated.

"Suggestions are welcome on what form this should take," he said. "I favor some type of non-profit approach. Consideration must also be kept in mind of the rapacious demands of legal ownership of the numerous parties connected with the loss of the camera in 1924."

After detailed studies of high-res aerial images from Everest Yellow Band, the Everest researcher Tom Holzel is positive about having spotted Irvine’s remains at 8,425m on the mountain’s north face. “The signs are very good,” he told ExplorersWeb. “Now all we need is some boots on the ground to prove it - and bring back Irvine's folding Kodak camera." They also need $200K and this is where you could be part of history.

Tom appointed professional Everest climbers and film-makers Thom Pollard and Jake Norton to launch a searching expedition - but to go for it in spring, 2010 the team also needed to gather up to $200K in barely two weeks time. A media campaign looking for someone ready to foot the bill in exchange of Everest fame and glory didn't pay off - Irvine will have to wait for one more year, unless someone else find him in the meantime.

Some background:

"First on Everest - The mystery of Mallory and Irvine," Tom Holzel set out to find Mallory's camera. In addition, Tom was the one to track down Zhang Junyan and corroborated the late Chinese mountaineer Wang's story about the discovery of an "English body" on the mountain.

In his popular Tracking truth-in-evidence on Mount Everest, published at ExWeb in 2008 (check the links section), the American historian explained how he had arrived to the conclusion that Mallory and Irvine did not summit Mount Everest back in 1924. To confirm Tom's theory that the climbers fell while descending after an aborted summit push; finding Irvine and the camera is crucial.

Mallory’s remains were found at 8,200 meters on Everest in 1999. Severe rope-jerk injuries around the body’s waist suggested that he could have fallen to his death while roped-up with climbing mate Andrew Irvine. No trace of Irvine was to be found though; or the camera the two carried on their last climb. Those who have searched the barren slopes of Everest North face since all returned empty-handed.

In a three-part series on The Search for Andrew Irvine published at ExplorersWeb in April, 2009 Tom Holzel thoroughly analyzed all clues, testimonies and high-resolution orthophotographic prints, to come up with a probable location of Irvine’s body.

In 2010, Holzel announced that strong clues pointed to a location at 8,425m on Mount Everest north side.
 
Source: explorersweb.com
Ex Military North Ridge Expedition
20/2/2010 1:42:36 PM
A team of ex-military personnel will be raising money for veterans by attempting to climb Mount Everest via the notoriously dangerous North Ridge.

Eight military veterans - and one non-military friend - have vowed to raise more than £200,000 during the expedition, with the money being donated to the Help for Heroes charity.

The expedition, dubbed Everest for Heroes, is being led by Lincoln-born Damon Blackband, a former British Army Warrant Officer who served for 23 years with the Army Air Corps as a helicopter crewman instructor.

The team is looking for sponsorship and support, either through selling off sections of the mountain at £5 per foot, or by supporting one of the mountain camps that will be required during the attempt.

Mr Blackband explained that the climb would raise vital funds for the rehabilitation and welfare of Britain's armed forces personnel who have been injured in service all over the world.

"We have all climbed throughout the world and travelled to some amazing places with military expeditions," he said.

"But we have never climbed Mount Everest, so this is our ultimate test as climbers.

"We have one mountain to conquer, our injured service personnel have to climb harder mountains every day."

The ascent of the 29,035 foot mountain is scheduled to take place in 2012 and will take in the notoriously difficult North Ridge, on the Tibetan side of Mount Everest.

Mr Blackband said that climbing the mountain would be a fantastic experience - despite the risks.

"Hopefully, we'll negate the risks as much as possible," he said.

For more information, contact Damon Blackband at damon@everest4heroes.com, or call 07768 608914.

Source: www.thisislincolnshire.co.uk
30th Anniversary of First Winter Ascent
17/2/2010 2:49:24 PM
Today marks the 30th anniversary of the first-ever summit of Mount Everest in the Winter season.

Two Polish mountaineers, Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki, reached the top of the world’s highest peak in 1980, going down in history as the first people to get there in winter.

Over the last 30 years, seven people have so far completed the challenge in winter time, however, in Summer, the journey is easier, so 3,500 have managed to summit Everest.

The 20-strong group which initially set off for the mountain was whittled down to two – the final leg of the journey upwards took seven hours, said Leszek Cichy to Polish Radio.
There isn’t much snow in the Himalayas in winter, as it is blown off by heavy wind. Mount Everest is fortified against mountaineers with large slabs of ice, strong winds and frost. The temperatures in tents at night dropped to minus 40˚C.

"We were high up on the ridge, the nearest people were several hours walking distance away from us. The only thing that allows us to keep in touch was radio. The wind was strong. And, as we were descending, dusk set in and snow from western face blew in the air. And we found ourselves on the border between what is real and unreal, on the border between shadow and the sun, night and day, and also, in a way, between life and death," Cichy said, referring to the last stages of the ascent.

A special event commemorating the feat is taking place at Warsaw’s Kinoteka cinema tonight. The programme includes a meeting with the two mountaineers, a screenings of a film offering a behind-the-scenes look at the expedition and a photo exhibition.

Source: Polskie Radio S.A.
Star Wars Ewan McGregor in film on Everest
15/2/2010 6:48:37 PM
Trainspotting stars Ewan McGregor and Kevin McKidd are to be reunited in a film about Mount Everest
 
It will see them work together for the first time since the classic 1996 Danny Boyle drugs movie that made them stars.
 
The Scots will travel to Nepal to shoot on location at the world's highest mountain's Base Camp - 17,700 ft above sea level.
 
Elgin-born McKidd, 36, said: "I'm going to need to get into shape for that."
 
A source close to the project said: "It doesn't have a name yet and a lot of the details are being kept quiet but it is expected to be a really gruelling schedule for both of them.
 
"It requires a big commitment as there are weeks of preparation and acclimatisation before they can properly start."
 
McGregor, 38, and McKidd have become hugely successful Hollywood actors in the 14 years since Trainspotting.
 
It was slower for McKidd but he is now one of the industry's most in-demand leading men.
 
The star, who lives with wife Jane and children Joseph, eight, and Iona, six, stars in TV hit Grey's Anatomy as Dr Owen Hunt.
 
He has also starred in TV blockbuster Rome as well as hit movies The Last Legion and Kingdom of Heaven.
 
In his latest movie, Percy Jackson and the Lightening Thief, he takes the role of Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea.
 
McGregor was first of the Trainspotting cast to make it big with his leading role in the 2001 hit Moulin Rouge.
He was also in the 2005 Star Wars trilogy but has since taken on smaller roles.
 
McKidd also revealed he turned down a major part in the last two Harry Potter films.
 
He said: "There was this mean, alpha-male werewolf character, who's like the big villain in the final film. My kids were like, 'Why did you have to turn that down?'
 
"But when Percy Jackson came through, it was like, 'I've got to do this. I've never done this kind of movie before'."
 
Source: sundaymail.co.uk
The changing Mallory and Irvine Story today
12/2/2010 7:24:07 PM
The changing Mallory and Irvine Story today: Cultural Imperialism on Everest.
 
By Philip Summers
 
Millenia ago in ancient Rome, after their adversaries had been defeated in battle, the Romans would parade the 'trophies' of their conquest through the city gates and then to the baying masses in a public orgy of self edification and validation on their 'self evident' prowess and divinely ordained might and righteousness.
 
The captured arms of the vanquished and other artefacts would be displayed to the 'great unwashed' and often constructed into macabre sculptures, as a maudlin symbol of imperial Rome's greatness.
 
It’s a story that’s as dismal in its repetition over time as its unseemliness both then and to the present day.
 
From the 'Elgin Marbles' now residing in Britain after being hewn from the Parthenon and still not returned to Greece, to Egyptian queen Nefertiti's bust smuggled out of Egypt and still residing in Berlin, to the systematised plunder of science, technology and experts out of Germany post World War Two by the United States for exploitation and advantage to the nascent American empire (doubtless much to the chagrin of the voiceless tens of thousands of dead slave workers who perished in the Mittelwerk for example).
 
In the latest 21st century of this cultural imperialism, the lofty heights of Mt Everest are now being plotted for new plunder by an American 'expedition' motivated by the quixotic Everest rake, Tom Holzel and a mercenary coterie of acolytes.
 
Based on Holzel's flawed analysis of high altitude photo imagery, which contrary to Holzel's frequently altered assertions since he choose to inflict his 'research' onto the Everest research community, has repeatedly failed to identify Englishman Andrew Irvine's exact location, consistent with a coherent theoretical basis that is more coterminous than Holzel's previous 'dodgy' and fraudulent theoretical reconstructions that encompass absurdly high climb rates for the pair to reach the 1924 Camp VI to the disaggregated notion that the pair would separate at the First Step, Mallory proceed alone to the Second Step and then failing to succeed there, Holzel then pretends that the pair reclimb the First Step after rendezvousing at the step base so as to better conform with Odell's 12.50 PM sighting of two figures climbing a rock step.
 
Lost in his own verbage, Holzel now pretends that the latest 'oblong blog' is Irvine where the previous instances he's proffered have all been negated, but which raises the real question of why is this latest example is any different?.
 
Convinced beyond epiphenomena, Holzel now promotes a search to his self convinced Irvine rest location by climbers in some sordid commercial money grubbing exercise to plunder the body of Irvine, with the aim of fetching any camera for examination to the United States in a 'circus' of media attention and the unseemly throng of self satisfied 'Romaneque' theatre.
 
Holzel and others seem though to be unmindful of the fact that this commercial plunder on Everest doesn't involve a deceased American.
 
Andrew Irvine, like his friend George Mallory was a British citizen who died in 1924, but still has living relatives in Britain, who may have a differing view on the plunder and exploitation of their family member.
 
Indeed the question of consultation with the British plus the Chinese where Irvine resides on their half of the mountain and the inexplicable plan to fetch any artefacts and take them back to the United States, smacks of mere 21st century 'trophy gathering' akin to the discredited practices of the past.
 
Questions such as;
 
By what right does this Holzelian American expedition have to plunder a deceased Briton for commercial and political tendentious exploitation purposes on Everest?
 
What measures for familial consultation has this American expedition made if any?
 
What Chinese sensibilities may be insulted by this American high-handedness
on their side the mountain?.
 
Why must any camera found be taken to the United States, where surely the appropriate end location should be Great Britain?
 
Absent of such simple questions being addressed by the Americans, the only conclusion that can be reached is that this sordid exercise is akin to the unsavoury 'triumphalism' of past regimes and discredited empires attempting self validation by treading on those who can't protest or stop the oppressor, be it Rome or anyone else.
 
In a spirit of reciprocity imagine the outcry in Holzel's own nation if a comparable circumstance were to occur in this hypothetical;
 
In 1969 imagine if the Apollo 11 craft reached lunar orbit on the first attempt to land on the lunar surface in another programme of political theatre.
 
However what if all radio contact and visual contact were lost and the crew never returned to Earth, leaving the hypothetical question of whether the American crew were the first to land on the moon.
 
Likely after such a disaster, the moon was abandoned until the present day where another nation decided to visit the moon to visit the Apollo craft, recover any artefacts, study the bodies and return any cameras that may reveal whether the crew reached the surface...
 
In this hypothetical, what would the reaction be in the United States to this.
 
Putting oneself in another's shoes may be an ability increasing lacking in this selfish day and age, but that doesn't mean we should be silent to that which is wrong.
 
Proper research on Everest is needed, that which is discreet, scientific and sensitive to others and to British and Chinese sensibilities who are both involved in this situation
 
The American plan on Everest will fail due to inherent flaws in the assumptions, but the principle of this expedition plan warrants criticism and censure.
 
Philip Summers
 
The views expressed in the contents above are those of Philip Summers and do not necessarily mean that Mount Everest The British Story 'agree' or 'disagrees' with its contents.
Alfred Gregory Obituary
11/2/2010 1:31:44 PM
Mountaineer and photographer who recorded the Mount Everest expedition of 1953.

There are some people who, by their presence and solidity, immediately impress, and Alfred Gregory, who has died aged 96, was one of them: the grave, lined face, the faded blue eyes puckering into ready laughter under a mane of silver hair, the slim sturdiness of physique and self-contained dignity. A former major in the Black Watch, the photographer with the team that made the first ascent of Everest in May 1953, and one of the stalwarts of that expedition, friendly with and respected by most of the climbing heroes of my youth, he was, in his diffident and self-effacing way, one of the crucial elders of the mountaineering tribe.

Greg, as he was always known, was born in Lancashire, the son of a grocer who was killed in the first world war when Greg was three. His mother moved to Blackpool, and struggled to make ends meet in a small grocery business through the depression. Greg went into the printing trade, joined the Youth Hostels Association when it was first founded in 1930, and began his outdoor career cycling in the countryside, particularly in the Lake District. At the hostels there, he met others whose love was fell-walking, so he bought a pair of boots, came to know the hills, saw climbers at play on the crags and decided to try that activity – without instruction, just with friends.

In the familiar community of mountaineering before the second world war, he came to know all the great names – Colin Kirkus, John Menlove Edwards, Jack Longland, Jim Birkett, AB Hargreaves, Harry Griffin and Sid Cross. By the time the war began, he already had the memories of three alpine seasons to sustain him through his service with the Black Watch in the western desert campaign and in Italy. When the war there ended earlier than elsewhere, he was able to climb alone extensively in the Alps.

Seven years later, by then one of the most experienced British alpinists, he was chosen for Eric Shipton's Himalayan expedition to the 26,906ft (8,201m) peak of Cho Oyu in 1952, on which mountain, along with Edmund Hillary and Charles Evans, Greg distinguished himself sufficiently and acclimatised well enough for his name to be pencilled in for the Everest expedition to be led by Shipton the next year. Then came the debacle of the leadership change, with Shipton replaced by Brigadier John Hunt.

"John Hunt came up to Liverpool specially to see Charles Evans and myself and to persuade us that – despite the difficulties around Eric's removal – he still wanted us there," Greg recalled. "And it's to his credit that the expedition he ran was a very happy as well as a successful one, despite those problems."
 
Greg reached 27,900ft (8,500m) in support of the successful assault on the world's highest peak, and took many of the best-known pictures of the Everest expedition, including images of Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay as they began their ascent to the summit, and as they celebrated their success afterwards.

After Everest, there were trips to Rolwaling, in north central Nepal, an orgy of peak-bagging at what Greg termed – and anyone who's experienced it might dispute – the "enjoyable" altitude of 20,000 or 21,000ft; and attempts on Khunyang Chhish and Distaghil Sar, difficult peaks that came into vogue in much later years. But slowly, Greg's interest modulated: travel, exploration, photography. He worked for Kodak professionally, in what he termed the "'gab racket" – lecturing on the societies-and-clubs circuit – moved into travel agency and eventually set up Alfred Gregory Holidays, in Blackpool.

Even there, he put the photographic gift developed on Everest to good use. Visiting him at his home of later years, in Derbyshire, I started to look through a pile of prints in his office. "What are these, Greg?" I asked, in delight at what was in front of me. "Oh, they're a series I took in Blackpool when I had my travel agency there – the old Blackpool 30 years ago, on the Golden Mile. I just wanted to record it as it was then."

The photographs were captivating: a pub madonna, detached and sad over a glass of beer; teddy boys and their girls kissing on the sand; fantasy photo-booths; young women flaunting and petticoated aperch railings; gap-toothed bar-laughter; and the mill towns' cobbled streets, from which this tide of humanity flowed. The printing was impeccable, the composition classically balanced, and the observation as sharp and kindly as any of the great photographic masters.

These pictures, which would have looked at home in a collection by Henri Cartier-Bresson, appeared in book form as Blackpool: A Celebration of the Sixties (1993) – a companion to his commemorative Alfred Gregory's Everest (1993). Greg later recounted how Cartier-Bresson had once called in at his travel agency in Blackpool. I asked him whether he had shown him the Golden Mile prints and what they had talked about.

"No, they were at home and I was in the office. All I can recall is that we discussed a portfolio that a photographer called Brian Brake – he was later with the Magnum agency – had just had published on monsoons in Life magazine." "So you were aware of other people's work?" I asked. "Oh, intensely so – it was the time of Bert Hardy and Picture Post. Photography was really taking off as a language at that time. And I was very intrigued by its possibilities. I bought one of the first Nikon SLRs and started photographing the people around me in Blackpool – capturing that split second where their attention drifts and they become momentarily unaware of you."

He went on to describe the importance of being there often enough to capture the moment – "every photographer has one" – when "God gives you a present".

Maybe God did give Greg many presents in the course of his long life – the mountaineering opportunities, the photographic talent, the palpable happiness of his second marriage – but he also had a toughness that enabled them, a fortitude and a philosophy that always carried him through. He remained active among the hills and mountains well into his 80s, and said, despite serious operations that had fused both of his ankles: "They still work. What else do you need? No point in complaining. I can still get about, and that's all that matters."

I last walked with him from his Derbyshire village of Elton on an autumn day, the hedgerow hawthorns heavy, their branches bowed with the weight of dull red clusters of berries. Birch leaves were a pale, lemony-yellow and the larches turning a dusty grey. Below, smoke rose vertically from the cottage chimneys, then drifted in blue skeins across the shadowy woods. And errant shafts of sunlight gilded the seamed boulders of Robin Hood's Stride so that they stood up, golden and solid and proud, as we descended to the valley and home.

Greg later emigrated with his wife, Sue, to Emerald, near Melbourne, Australia. She survives him. In 2003, on the 50th anniversary of the Mount Everest ascent, his pictures were exhibited at the National Theatre in London, and he said then: "Everest doesn't leave you. People still want to know about it. I don't know how many pictures I took, but it was fewer than photographers would take today. No special equipment – I just kept the camera warm inside my jacket. I went up Everest as an amateur photographer, but I came down a professional."

• Alfred John Gregory, mountaineer and photographer, born 12 February 1913; died 9 February 2010

Actor to Climb Everest
9/2/2010 7:14:21 PM
Actor Brian Blessed is aiming to climb Mount Everest without oxygen next year to raise money for Cumbria's flood victims.
He wants to scale the world's highest peak in aid of what he called a "wonderful cause."
He said: "When I was asked if I would help, I jumped at it. The mountain rescue, police, fire, RNLI and others were all wonderful during the floods.” He intends getting sponsored and raise money over the next ten years.

Keen mountaineer Brian Blessed - perhaps best known for his roles as Vultan in the sci-fi movie Flash Gordon and PC Smith in Z Cars made his first trip to Mount Everest in 1990 and went back again in 1993 and 1996, but he has never stood on its summit.
Brian hopes to climb Mount Everest in 2011 when he will be 74 years of age. He also hopes to do it without the aid of artificial oxygen.
Search for Irvine
9/2/2010 7:12:37 PM
"That's got to be Irvine,” says Tom Holzel, pointing at a convex blob in an Mount Everest image. “Now all we need is some boots on the ground to prove it - and bring back Irvine's folding Kodak camera." They also need $200K and this is where you could be part of history.

After detailed studies of high-res aerial images from Everest Yellow Band (check ExWeb’s previous story), the Everest researcher is positive about having spotted Irvine’s remains at 8,425m on the mountain’s north face. “The signs are very good,” he told ExplorersWeb.
“However, as with all speculation, it will take crampons in the snow to get the final answer to this long quest.”

“I have got two well-known and respected professional Everest climbers and film-makers ready to launch a mini-expedition this spring: Thom Pollard and Jake Norton,” Tom said.

200K to make Everest History

“They require funding of $200,000 to launch this expedition, film the discovery of Andrew Irvine and bring his precious camera back to the U.S. The film in the old camera has been perpetually frozen and is not affected by cosmic rays (as modern film is). The ancient film will show whether or not the two reached the summit of
Mount Everest in 1924, some 29 years before sir Edmund Hillary & Sherpa Norgay. If they did, it will rewrite history and be reported in every newspaper, TV show and media outlet in the world.”

“Even if they did not reach the top (which is more likely) just finding out how far they did get, showing images of them and their climb will bringing to a close this mystery that has fascinated explorers for 85 years. It will still make headlines around the world.”

The deal

Time is short though, Tom points out: "the mountain is reasonably clear of snow only in the spring climbing season, April 15th to June 15th, and it takes time to get permits, find Sherpa guides, get equipment, oxygen, etc. However, my two professional climbers could still get a permit for this year’s season.”

“This may be an opportunity for an ambitious, sporty young man (or woman) who wants to make a name for himself/herself,” Tom said. What he offers is not just to sponsor the expedition – but to actually become a team member and get instantly famous on Everest’s upper slopes.

“It occurred to me that some wealthy sportsmen would love to be the discoverers of what might be a history-altering find,” said Holzel. “They would have to be strong, with some mountaineering experience and able to put up $200K in a few days time.”

The race is on

“We will lead him (or her) to discover Irvine and his camera, an event that will be reported all over the world. We're now pretty sure we've got the location of Irvine's body nailed down. Although the location is awkward to get to, and off the beaten path, it is still below the First Step at 8425m. So huge climbing skills are not required--just the usual endurance--and, of course, the money.”

“The catch is we need to find this ambitious person NOW--before mid February--to be able to set everything up,” Tom ended. “Fee must be paid up front. Otherwise we'll have to wait until next year--and probably have a lot of competition.”
2010 Everest Expeditions
9/2/2010 7:09:44 PM
So far the following British expedition company’s have announced there trips to Mount Everest this coming spring.
North Side:
Jagged Globe
Adventure Peaks
Adventure Extreme Expeditions
South Side:
Jagged Globe
Trekking Encounters
Dream Guides
Have I missed you out? If so please let me have your details and I will add them to the 2010 Everest Expeditions page of this website.
Maybe you are climbing Mount Everest this Spring but not with a British company. If you are a British citizen I would still like to hear from you. You will get a mention in the dispatches that I will be doing in April/May.
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