British Expeditions
Year: 1921
Season: Spring
Leader: C K Howard-Bury (UK)
Route: West, North and East Sides
Height Reached: 7000m
Members: Guy Bullock (UK), Alexander Heron (UK), Alexander Kellas (UK), George Mallory (UK), Henry Morshead (UK), Harold Raeburn (UK), Edward Wheeler (UK), Alexander Wollaston (UK)
Reason Summit not reached: Route too difficult and lack of strength
Deaths: Alexander Kellas and one porter died on approach march
Year: 1922
Season: Spring
Leader: Charles G Bruce (UK)
Route: North Col - North Face
Height Reached: 8320m
Members: John Bruce (UK), Colin Crawford (UK), George Finch (Australia), Thomas Longstaff (UK), George Mallory (UK), Charles Morris (UK), Henry Morshead (UK), John Noel (UK), Edward Norton (UK), Theodore Somervell (UK), Edward Strutt (UK), Arthur Wakefield (UK), Dorje Sherpa (Nepal), Lhakpa Sherpa (Nepal), Norbu Sherpa (Nepal), Pasang Sherpa (Nepal), Pema Sherpa (Nepal), Remba Sherpa (Nepal), Sange Sherpa (Nepal)
Reason Summit not reached: Route too difficult and lack of strength
Deaths: Dorje Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa, Norbu Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Pema Sherpa,
Remba Sherpa, Sange Sherpa killed in avalanche below North Col
Year: 1924
Season: Spring
Leader: Edward F Norton (UK)
Route: North Col - North Face and North Col - North Ridge
Height Reached: 8570m
Members: Bently Beetham (UK), John Bruce (UK), John Hazard (UK), Richard Hingston (UK), Andrew Irvine (UK), George Mallory (UK), John Noel (UK), Noel Odell (UK), Edward Shebbeare (UK), Theodore Somervell (UK), Man Bahadur Gurkha (Nepal), Shamsher Gurkha (Nepal)
Reason Summit not reached: Abandoned after the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine
Deaths: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine disappeared and Man Bahadur Gurkha and Shamsher Gurkha died of illness
Year: 1933
Season: Spring
Leader: Hugh Ruttledge (UK)
Route: North Col - North Face
Height Reached: 8570m
Members: Eugene Birnie (UK), John Boustead (UK), Thomas Brocklebank (UK), Colin Crawford (UK), Charles Greene (UK), Jack Longland (UK), William Maclean (UK), Edward Shebbeare (UK), Eric Shipton (UK), William Smyth-Windham (UK), Frank Smythe (UK), E C Thompsom (UK), Lawrence Wager (UK), George Wood-Johnson (UK), Percy Wyn-Harris (UK)
Reason Summit not reached: Route too difficult and lack of strength
Deaths: None
Year: 1934
Season: Spring
Leader: Maurice Wilson (UK)
Route: North Col
Height Reached: 6900m
Members: Tewang Sherpa (Nepal), Rinzing Sherpa (Nepal), Tsering Sherpa (Nepal)
Reason Summit not reached: Maurice Wilson's death
Deaths: Maurice Wilson died of exposure/frostbite
Year: 1935
Season: Summer
Leader: Eric Shipton (UK)
Route: North Col and West Side
Height Reached: 7000m
Members: Leslie Bryant (New Zealand), Edwin Kempson (UK), Michael Spender (UK), Harold Tilman (UK), Charles Warren (UK), Edmund Wigram (UK)
Reason Summit not reached: Bad conditions, deep snow and avalanches
Deaths: None
Year: 1936
Season: Spring
Leader: Hugh Ruttledge (UK)
Route: North Col
Height Reached: 7000m
Members: James Gavin (UK), Gordon Humphreys (UK), Edwin Kempson (UK), Charles Morris (UK), Peter Oliver (UK), Eric Shipton (UK), William Smyth-Windham (UK), Frank Smythe (UK), Charles Warren (UK), Edmund Wigram (UK), Percy Wyn-Harris (UK)
Reason Summit not reached: Bad Weather, storms and high winds
Deaths: None
Year: 1938
Season: Spring
Leader: H W Tilman (UK)
Route: East Rongbuk Glacier - North Col and North Col - North Face
Height Reached: 8300m
Members: Peter Lloyd (UK), Noel Odell (UK), Peter Oliver (UK), Eric Shipton (UK), Frank Smythe (UK), Charles Warren (UK)
Reason Summit not reached: Bad conditions, deep snow and avalanches
Deaths: None
Year: 1951
Season: Autumn
Leader: Eric Shipton (UK)
Route: Khumbu Glacier - Khumbu Icefall (recon)
Height Reached: 6000m
Members: Thomas Bourdillon (UK), Edmund Hillary (New Zealand), William Murray (UK), Harold Riddiford (New Zealand), Michael Ward (UK), Angtharkey Sherpa (Nepal), Nima Sherpa (Nepal), Pasang Sherpa (Nepal)
Reason Summit not reached: Route proved too difficult
Deaths: None
Year: 1953
Season: Spring
Leader: John Hunt (UK)
Route: South Col - South East Ridge
Height Reached: Summit
Members: George Band (UK), Thomas Bourdillon (UK), Charles Evans (UK), Alfred Gregory (UK), Edmund Hillary (New Zealand), George Lowe (New Zealand), Wilfrid Noyce (UK), Griffith Pugh (UK), Thomas Stobart (UK), Michael Ward (UK), Michael Westmacott (UK), Charles Wylie (UK), Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (Nepal)
Summit Reached By: Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa on the 29th May
Deaths: None |
